Cheap Boots
Turned Down a Chance to Ride...Again
Unseasonably warm weather has cleared the roads of any ice, and made it possible for me to dust off the ST1300 for a mid-winter ride.
I rode to work yesterday and today.
I think commuting in the winter is harder than in the summer. And not just for the obvious reasons of "ice and snow", which, by the way I avoid.
1. Drivers aren't expecting to see a motorcycle.
The brain dead cagers have a hard enough time noticing motorcycles in July, when the sun is shining brightly, and every fourth vehicle is a motorcycle. In January, when nobody has seen a bike in six weeks, it's darned near impossible.
2. The are fewer hours of daylight.
To work my regular work hours during the winter, I'm leaving my house in darkness, and returning in darkness. in the summer imcan keep those same hours and ride in daylight both ways.
3. Road Salt does not provide good traction.
Even when the ice and snow have melted away during an unseasonable warm spell during the winter months, the sand or salt that road crews spread on the roads during the last snowstorm is still lingering on the roadways. These are especially troublesome in corners, or in the center of the lane between the tire tracks of the cars.
Despite all this, Imstill enjoy my winter rides. They're a rare treat to break up the monotony of the long winter months.
I rode to work yesterday and today.
I think commuting in the winter is harder than in the summer. And not just for the obvious reasons of "ice and snow", which, by the way I avoid.
1. Drivers aren't expecting to see a motorcycle.
The brain dead cagers have a hard enough time noticing motorcycles in July, when the sun is shining brightly, and every fourth vehicle is a motorcycle. In January, when nobody has seen a bike in six weeks, it's darned near impossible.
2. The are fewer hours of daylight.
To work my regular work hours during the winter, I'm leaving my house in darkness, and returning in darkness. in the summer imcan keep those same hours and ride in daylight both ways.
3. Road Salt does not provide good traction.
Even when the ice and snow have melted away during an unseasonable warm spell during the winter months, the sand or salt that road crews spread on the roads during the last snowstorm is still lingering on the roadways. These are especially troublesome in corners, or in the center of the lane between the tire tracks of the cars.
Despite all this, Imstill enjoy my winter rides. They're a rare treat to break up the monotony of the long winter months.
Late Season Ride
I rode to work again today. Any time I can commute after November 15 I count myself lucky; my season usually finishes by then.
Not only did I ride, but I enjoyed it! So many of my recent rides have been dull, and my skills have been rusty. Today everything felt good, and I was happy to rack up more miles before the snow.
Not only did I ride, but I enjoyed it! So many of my recent rides have been dull, and my skills have been rusty. Today everything felt good, and I was happy to rack up more miles before the snow.
Ray of Light
Low Mileage
Mrs. Rat and I
Rode to work today
I rode to work today. There was no rain nor snow. The low this morning was about 40 degrees F, and the high was about 50 degrees F.
Mine was the only bike I saw, which is kind of odd. There have been colder or rainier days lately on which I have seen more bikes.
Hoping to ride tomorrow...
I haven't ridden since Saturday. It's been cold and rainy, and I've been under the weather all week.
If i get some sleep, and if it doesn't rain, I'll ride to work tomorrow.
Sport-Commuter Tire
Who is Dorothy Snell?
Come to think of it, her name is on my wife's helmet, too.
Maybe she designs helmets? I like my helmet . . . I wonder if Dot designs other gear besides helmets? Are there gloves?
Okay. Yes. I know Dot Snell is not a person. I know what the sticker means. But why not have fun with it?
We could promote motorcycle safety with the creation of a cartoon character.
Dot Snell says, 'Always wear your helmet!'
Kind of like Smokey Bear for the two-wheeled set.
Ouch! My butt!
On Saturday I took a three hundred mile jaunt into the twisties --- my longest excursion to date on the ST1300.
My butt hurts from the Sargent saddle that the previous owner installed. I made the same circuit last year on the magna with less pain. Got me looking for alternative seats. Yikes.
Felt like knives inserted into pressure points in my butt after the first hundred miles. Also I had pain in my neck, shoulders, and both wrists by about two hundred miles. It really was quite painful, and all of it a bit of a surprise.
I return home to check with http://www.st-owners.com and to discover they have a wealth of knowledge about seats. Some of this info is not surprising:
-- many folks love their Sargent seats
-- a handful have serious problems with Sargent
-- some have tried custom seats and been pleasently surprised
But even simpler than this, I learned i need to test out a few adjustments which are possible on ST1300 seats. Better start there ... With adjusting seat height front and back, and thereby adjusting seat angle.
More research needed...
My butt hurts from the Sargent saddle that the previous owner installed. I made the same circuit last year on the magna with less pain. Got me looking for alternative seats. Yikes.
Felt like knives inserted into pressure points in my butt after the first hundred miles. Also I had pain in my neck, shoulders, and both wrists by about two hundred miles. It really was quite painful, and all of it a bit of a surprise.
I return home to check with http://www.st-owners.com and to discover they have a wealth of knowledge about seats. Some of this info is not surprising:
-- many folks love their Sargent seats
-- a handful have serious problems with Sargent
-- some have tried custom seats and been pleasently surprised
But even simpler than this, I learned i need to test out a few adjustments which are possible on ST1300 seats. Better start there ... With adjusting seat height front and back, and thereby adjusting seat angle.
More research needed...
And Then There Was One. . .
I was able to resolve the work issues over the phone in about 30 to 45 minutes. By then I knew I could never catch up, so I plotted a solo return trip.
Break Time
BMW LT1500
Kawasaki Versys
Honda ST1300
Not pictured: Kawasaki KLR 650.
First To Arrive
This year hasn't gone according to plan. So, I'm eager to start, and am the first to arrive at our traditional rendezvous point.
It was forty degrees when I left my house. The heated gear, plus the ST's great wind protection, kept me plenty toasty. By the time we're done with breakfast, it may be warm enough for me to turn off the electric gear.
You Never Saw Me
You never saw me at all. I was on my motorcycle, riding home to my family after working all day. You were in your black Mercedes sedan, with deeply tinted windows.
With windows that dark, it's a wonder you can see anything going on outside your vehicle. I get the impression, however, that you don't concern yourself too much with what's happening out here.
When you pulled into the roundabout, you scarcely cast a glance in my direction. The conversation you were having on your cell phone was obviously much more important than the well being and safety of other drivers, or me.
As your expensive European sedan loped into the intersection, right in front of me, you were blissfully unaware. Fortunately for me, I was watching my surroundings a good deal more intently than you were watching yours.
In fact, I survive my daily two wheeled commute by watching out for the likes of you, and being prepared to take evasive action.
So when you pulled out in front of me, I was able to stop. Did you hear the chatter of my tires on the pavement as I came to a stop? You seemed unaware of the peril you had placed me in. You simply slid on by.
I resumed my trip home. Because of my own watchful eye, you'll go on to menace other drivers . . . and riders . . . like me. And I'll go on watching out for you.
Parked motorcycles, again. . .
I really am a dufus!
A friend of mine called me up the other night and asked if I'd
come help him fix his scooter. He owns a Chinese piece-of-crap
scooter which had been sitting all year. He finally got it up and
running, and was hoping to ride it to work the next day. He
discovered the front brake lever went all the way to the grip with no
resistance. He called me up for help with his brakes.
I headed over to his house. Weather was nice so I decided to hop on
the ST1300 to ride over. Bike had been sitting for a while.
When I went to start my bike, there was a definite hesitation while it
cranked before it started. It was enough of a lag for me to notice.
But it eventually started, and I went on my way. He lives a mile from
my house.
Over to his house, working by flashlight in his driveway, discovered
his brake fluid was dark and sludgy at the master cylinder. Bled his
brakes and resuscitated them. He was grateful.
We said our goodbyes, he went into his house and I went back to my bike.
Total darkness. Key in ignition, dash and headlight on. Press the
start button...nothing. Key off and back on... Still no worky.
"Oh no!". My battery must have been too weak to start me up twice
without ample charging time in between.
Well, heck, I should be able to bump start this motor. Paddling my
feet and trying to shoosh the bike along a dark suburban steet. Pop
the clutch and ... Nothing.
I tried this several more times. No dice.
I called my friend (rather than waking his whole fam by knocking on
the door). He came back outside, agreed to help me push start the
bike.
We tried a few more times, with no luck.
I had the easy job. He was huffing and puffing and sweating by the
end of it. I felt bad for him. We called off the push starting
effort.
We stripped off the seat and side cover to expose the battery. Nick
moved his car around to facilitate giving me a jump start.
Bike started right away. Put it back together and rode home.
It wasn't until the next morning that I realized my bike never needed
a jump start. I hadn't hit the switch. The switch was off the entire
time I was pushing that bike - he was pushing that bike.
What a doof! I forgot a lot during my two month hiatus. I even forgot FINE-C.
It wouldn't have happened in broad daylight when I could see the
switch. It may not have happened if I hadn't been so tired. It
wouldn't have happened if my battery hadn't seemed jittery at the
start of the trip...it lead me to the wrong conclusion. But it
happened! Duh!
Think I've confessed this dumbass moment to my friend? Not yet
come help him fix his scooter. He owns a Chinese piece-of-crap
scooter which had been sitting all year. He finally got it up and
running, and was hoping to ride it to work the next day. He
discovered the front brake lever went all the way to the grip with no
resistance. He called me up for help with his brakes.
I headed over to his house. Weather was nice so I decided to hop on
the ST1300 to ride over. Bike had been sitting for a while.
When I went to start my bike, there was a definite hesitation while it
cranked before it started. It was enough of a lag for me to notice.
But it eventually started, and I went on my way. He lives a mile from
my house.
Over to his house, working by flashlight in his driveway, discovered
his brake fluid was dark and sludgy at the master cylinder. Bled his
brakes and resuscitated them. He was grateful.
We said our goodbyes, he went into his house and I went back to my bike.
Total darkness. Key in ignition, dash and headlight on. Press the
start button...nothing. Key off and back on... Still no worky.
"Oh no!". My battery must have been too weak to start me up twice
without ample charging time in between.
Well, heck, I should be able to bump start this motor. Paddling my
feet and trying to shoosh the bike along a dark suburban steet. Pop
the clutch and ... Nothing.
I tried this several more times. No dice.
I called my friend (rather than waking his whole fam by knocking on
the door). He came back outside, agreed to help me push start the
bike.
We tried a few more times, with no luck.
I had the easy job. He was huffing and puffing and sweating by the
end of it. I felt bad for him. We called off the push starting
effort.
We stripped off the seat and side cover to expose the battery. Nick
moved his car around to facilitate giving me a jump start.
Bike started right away. Put it back together and rode home.
It wasn't until the next morning that I realized my bike never needed
a jump start. I hadn't hit the switch. The switch was off the entire
time I was pushing that bike - he was pushing that bike.
What a doof! I forgot a lot during my two month hiatus. I even forgot FINE-C.
It wouldn't have happened in broad daylight when I could see the
switch. It may not have happened if I hadn't been so tired. It
wouldn't have happened if my battery hadn't seemed jittery at the
start of the trip...it lead me to the wrong conclusion. But it
happened! Duh!
Think I've confessed this dumbass moment to my friend? Not yet
Bike at the Conference Center
Boot Search
Cycle Outfitters in Indianapolis is a great place to buy gear. Though I haven't been able to ride, I am still in the market for some new riding boots.
So I paid them a visit, and tried on several pairs of boots.
I would've tried on the River Road "Engineer Boot" if they'd had them in black. They looked so good on Arnold in "Terminator 2" that I can't resist them. Even though I doubt they'd make the transition to sport touring. Some attire only belongs on a cruiser.
There weren't many choices. A few "tennis shoe" looking things which barely covered the ankles. A few truly gawdy cruiser-style boots with buckles and fringes. A bevy of dirt-bike style boots, which I'm really not going for.
I settled on the Tour Master Solution 2.0 Waterproof boots. The size 12 seemed a little to tight across the ball of my foot, so I looked for a larger size. A 12.5 fit the ball of my foot, but was sloppy and loose at the heel. What I really need is a 12 Wide, which of course, the manufacturer doesn't make.
Another odd thing about the Tour Master boot was the way the heels were shaped. The inside of each heel seemed shorter than the outside. This made the boot slant inward, and gave me a slightly knock-kneed stance. If I noticed it walking around the store while trying the boots on, I'd surely notice it -- and probably suffer for it -- if I were to wear the boots for any length of time.
So, unfortunately, I left empty handed. No boots for me this time.
So I paid them a visit, and tried on several pairs of boots.
I would've tried on the River Road "Engineer Boot" if they'd had them in black. They looked so good on Arnold in "Terminator 2" that I can't resist them. Even though I doubt they'd make the transition to sport touring. Some attire only belongs on a cruiser.
There weren't many choices. A few "tennis shoe" looking things which barely covered the ankles. A few truly gawdy cruiser-style boots with buckles and fringes. A bevy of dirt-bike style boots, which I'm really not going for.
I settled on the Tour Master Solution 2.0 Waterproof boots. The size 12 seemed a little to tight across the ball of my foot, so I looked for a larger size. A 12.5 fit the ball of my foot, but was sloppy and loose at the heel. What I really need is a 12 Wide, which of course, the manufacturer doesn't make.
Another odd thing about the Tour Master boot was the way the heels were shaped. The inside of each heel seemed shorter than the outside. This made the boot slant inward, and gave me a slightly knock-kneed stance. If I noticed it walking around the store while trying the boots on, I'd surely notice it -- and probably suffer for it -- if I were to wear the boots for any length of time.
So, unfortunately, I left empty handed. No boots for me this time.
Too Sick To Ride
Motorcycles are fun, and this blog has always been about enjoying motorcycles, and doing so safely.
Without boring you with the details, let me say that this year I've been too sick to ride most of the time. It pains me to leave that new-to-me ST1300 sitting idle in the garage for two months of prime riding season. Then, In the past two or three weeks I have felt well enough to ride a handful of times.
There is little joy in it for me now, but I cling to the hope that things will get better. It's best that I focus on recovery, and not on the loss of the season.
Gotta stay positive.
Agoraphobia and The Motorcyclist
I think I have agoraphobia!
You may think it's nonsense. How could a motorcyclist can have agoraphobia? A fear of open spaces? That can't be - a motorcyclist loves the open road, and coudn't possibly have a clinical phobia about open roads.
But let's dig a little deeper into the etymological roots of agoraphobia. Phobia is of course fear, and agora means "of the marketplace". In its time, it was an open space, an open market, but today's markets bear little resemblence to them.
So, as an agoraphobic in the literal sense, I am afraid of the marketplace.
I hate buying and selling things - particularly large objects such as vehicles in general, and anything I have to negotiate in particular.
This to me is the beauty of eBay, and why it's 1,000 times better than Craigslist or its ilk. eBay allows me to sell at auction, without having to dicker. Craiglist embodies the "ditigal want-ads" -- nothing more than an "ad in the newspaper" moved into the digital age.
For me, collecting payment and handing over the title is enough stress for one face-to-face transaction. To add dickering and dithering on price, as the glorified want ads do, makes it an unbearable transaction.
Maybe my motorcycle blog isn't a forum for discussing our phobias...but I chose to do it.
Am I alone in the way I feel about the modern marketplace?
You may think it's nonsense. How could a motorcyclist can have agoraphobia? A fear of open spaces? That can't be - a motorcyclist loves the open road, and coudn't possibly have a clinical phobia about open roads.
But let's dig a little deeper into the etymological roots of agoraphobia. Phobia is of course fear, and agora means "of the marketplace". In its time, it was an open space, an open market, but today's markets bear little resemblence to them.
So, as an agoraphobic in the literal sense, I am afraid of the marketplace.
I hate buying and selling things - particularly large objects such as vehicles in general, and anything I have to negotiate in particular.
This to me is the beauty of eBay, and why it's 1,000 times better than Craigslist or its ilk. eBay allows me to sell at auction, without having to dicker. Craiglist embodies the "ditigal want-ads" -- nothing more than an "ad in the newspaper" moved into the digital age.
For me, collecting payment and handing over the title is enough stress for one face-to-face transaction. To add dickering and dithering on price, as the glorified want ads do, makes it an unbearable transaction.
Maybe my motorcycle blog isn't a forum for discussing our phobias...but I chose to do it.
Am I alone in the way I feel about the modern marketplace?
Sold It
Jezebel has been sold to the highest bidder. After four years and 16,000 miles, it's time to say goodbye.
I listed her on eBay, and had my share of flakes making bids, demanding special treatment, and ultimately cancelling bids.
But in the end, she appears to have sold.
Sale Prep - Honda Magna
I'm finally getting the Honda Magna ready for sale on eBay.
Based on the advice of fellow-riders, I removed most of the expensive farkles (accessories) which I had added to the bike. I'll sell those separately.
Then, I decided I needed to clean the carbs? Why? Why did I do this to myself when the bike was running well enough? I don't know. I was unhappy with a little off-idle hesitation when I throttled up when the bike was cold. It seemed to me to need a carb cleaning.
But, what a lengthy and painful process for a Honda V4. I was cursing Soichiro himself as I was removing the carbs.
Getting them cleaned wasn't too bad. Assuming I didn't mess something up or make something worse in the process.
Getting the carbs back on the bike wasn't too tough either. The carbs on the 3rd generation Magna, with its modified carb boots, are much easier to seat than the 1st generation Magna.
I'll get the air filter back on, and then the gas tank, and then eagerly await the moment of truth. If I've fixed the off-idle hesitation, I'll call it good, and start polishing her up for photographs.
Stay tuned.
Based on the advice of fellow-riders, I removed most of the expensive farkles (accessories) which I had added to the bike. I'll sell those separately.
Then, I decided I needed to clean the carbs? Why? Why did I do this to myself when the bike was running well enough? I don't know. I was unhappy with a little off-idle hesitation when I throttled up when the bike was cold. It seemed to me to need a carb cleaning.
But, what a lengthy and painful process for a Honda V4. I was cursing Soichiro himself as I was removing the carbs.
Getting them cleaned wasn't too bad. Assuming I didn't mess something up or make something worse in the process.
Getting the carbs back on the bike wasn't too tough either. The carbs on the 3rd generation Magna, with its modified carb boots, are much easier to seat than the 1st generation Magna.
I'll get the air filter back on, and then the gas tank, and then eagerly await the moment of truth. If I've fixed the off-idle hesitation, I'll call it good, and start polishing her up for photographs.
Stay tuned.
The Genetics of ATGATT
Are You An ATGATT Rat?
What is an ATGATT Rat, anyway?
What does that mean?
What's ATGATT?
I've been asked this question since I assumed the monicker "Atgatt Rat" and began the blog.
ATGATT is a well-established term, a mantra for the safe rider, and an acronym for "All The Gear, All The Time". It's been described as a philosophy, an ideal.
ATGATTers abound. We're the quiet minority in moto-culture. I don't know the percentages; someday when I'm bored I'll take to doing informal surveys of riders I see on a sunny day. How many are wearing helmets? How many are wearing gloves? How many are wearing boots? How many are wearing long pants (for starters). How many are wearing pants with some level of protection above mere denim.
If "moto-gear" is a continuum, on one extreme we have the pure SQUID. This, too, is a well-established term in moto-culture.
Squids wear no protective gear. They don't even wear appropriate attire. Sandals, flip-flops, shorts, tank tops, no shirts. I've seen it all. They hop on a bike dressed like they would walk to the refrigerator, or walk to the beach.
On the other extreme, are the hard-core ATGATTers. There are those among us who would not dream of throwing a leg over a motorcycle without donning every article of protective clothing. Boots offer more protection than sandals or flip-flops. Motorcycle-specific boots have special abrasion resistance and armor in strategic locations.
So it is with pants. Blue jeans offer more protection than shorts or cutoffs. They offer more protection than a pair of Dockers. But motorcycle-specific clothing would take this the extra step, by adding padding in the butt and knees, abrasion-resistant fabric, or armor.
Leather Jackets are iconic motorcycle wear. Even a jacket worn for its good looks, if it's made of leather, offers more protection than a tank top. But for true protection, it has to be motorcycle-grade leather, or another abrasion resistant fabric such as kevlar, nylon, or cordura. There are mesh jackets for summer and quilted padded lined jackets for cold-weather riding.
Helmets, too, have a wide range, from the minimalist beanie, to the full-face helmet.
So, we have the Squids, and we have the ATGATTers, and everyone in between. Most folks who ride fall somewhere in between; we may tend toward true pure ATGATT, or may tend toward Squidishness.
Okay, I understand ATGATT? But where does "Rat" come in?
In moto-culture, a Rat Bike is a beat-up old bike. Technically, it takes more than age or signs of wear to make a bike a "Rat". It needs to be modified. And by this, I don't mean "customized" with expensive after-market parts. I mean modified, cheaply, to serve some function. An example of a Rat modification would be patching a hole in the exhaust with an aluminum beer can. Rat bikes might have missing covers, dangling wires. The emphasis is on getting the bike running on the cheap. Function over form. Sort of the antithesis of the chromed and polished "custom bike" which has lots of expensive modifications which enhance the appearance but do nothing to enhance the performance or the function.
When I bought my first motorcycle, at the tender age of 38, it was a 20-year-old Ratty looking bike that I bought for $900. Rusty tank, duct tape wrapped around the broken stubs of the turn signals holding them on -- all it lacked to be a true rat bike would have been a broken mirror or a beer-can exhaust patch.
Immediately after buying it, I geared up. Before I ever rode it, I bought a helmet. I found gloves. I wore boots. I would tell my friends about the jacket, or the pants, or the boots I bought as "motorcycle gear."
One friend made the observation "Holy Crap! You're going to spend more on gear than you did on your bike!"
I thought about it, and thought, "Yeah, I probably will. And what's so bad about that?"
What does that mean?
What's ATGATT?
I've been asked this question since I assumed the monicker "Atgatt Rat" and began the blog.
ATGATT is a well-established term, a mantra for the safe rider, and an acronym for "All The Gear, All The Time". It's been described as a philosophy, an ideal.
ATGATTers abound. We're the quiet minority in moto-culture. I don't know the percentages; someday when I'm bored I'll take to doing informal surveys of riders I see on a sunny day. How many are wearing helmets? How many are wearing gloves? How many are wearing boots? How many are wearing long pants (for starters). How many are wearing pants with some level of protection above mere denim.
If "moto-gear" is a continuum, on one extreme we have the pure SQUID. This, too, is a well-established term in moto-culture.
Squids wear no protective gear. They don't even wear appropriate attire. Sandals, flip-flops, shorts, tank tops, no shirts. I've seen it all. They hop on a bike dressed like they would walk to the refrigerator, or walk to the beach.
On the other extreme, are the hard-core ATGATTers. There are those among us who would not dream of throwing a leg over a motorcycle without donning every article of protective clothing. Boots offer more protection than sandals or flip-flops. Motorcycle-specific boots have special abrasion resistance and armor in strategic locations.
So it is with pants. Blue jeans offer more protection than shorts or cutoffs. They offer more protection than a pair of Dockers. But motorcycle-specific clothing would take this the extra step, by adding padding in the butt and knees, abrasion-resistant fabric, or armor.
Leather Jackets are iconic motorcycle wear. Even a jacket worn for its good looks, if it's made of leather, offers more protection than a tank top. But for true protection, it has to be motorcycle-grade leather, or another abrasion resistant fabric such as kevlar, nylon, or cordura. There are mesh jackets for summer and quilted padded lined jackets for cold-weather riding.
Helmets, too, have a wide range, from the minimalist beanie, to the full-face helmet.
So, we have the Squids, and we have the ATGATTers, and everyone in between. Most folks who ride fall somewhere in between; we may tend toward true pure ATGATT, or may tend toward Squidishness.
What's A Rat?
Okay, I understand ATGATT? But where does "Rat" come in?
In moto-culture, a Rat Bike is a beat-up old bike. Technically, it takes more than age or signs of wear to make a bike a "Rat". It needs to be modified. And by this, I don't mean "customized" with expensive after-market parts. I mean modified, cheaply, to serve some function. An example of a Rat modification would be patching a hole in the exhaust with an aluminum beer can. Rat bikes might have missing covers, dangling wires. The emphasis is on getting the bike running on the cheap. Function over form. Sort of the antithesis of the chromed and polished "custom bike" which has lots of expensive modifications which enhance the appearance but do nothing to enhance the performance or the function.
When I bought my first motorcycle, at the tender age of 38, it was a 20-year-old Ratty looking bike that I bought for $900. Rusty tank, duct tape wrapped around the broken stubs of the turn signals holding them on -- all it lacked to be a true rat bike would have been a broken mirror or a beer-can exhaust patch.
Immediately after buying it, I geared up. Before I ever rode it, I bought a helmet. I found gloves. I wore boots. I would tell my friends about the jacket, or the pants, or the boots I bought as "motorcycle gear."
One friend made the observation "Holy Crap! You're going to spend more on gear than you did on your bike!"
I thought about it, and thought, "Yeah, I probably will. And what's so bad about that?"
ATGATT RAT is born
So, I made up this term...ATGATT Rat. I combined two already-existing terms in our moto-culture lexicon, and made a new term.
Strictly speaking, an "ATGATT Rat" spends more on gear than he does on his motorcycle.
More broadly interpreted, it means an emphasis on safety over image. It might be cool to evoke Brando in his blue jeans and leather jacket, but it's safer to wear abrasion-resistant pants and jacket, gloves, and a full-face helmet. You can't wink at the girls at the stoplight as readily wearing a full-face helmet, but you'll fare much better in case of an accident.
At its core, the ATGATT Rat philosophy says, "It doesn't matter what you ride! Just put on your gear, and let's ride!"
So, I made up this term...ATGATT Rat. I combined two already-existing terms in our moto-culture lexicon, and made a new term.
Strictly speaking, an "ATGATT Rat" spends more on gear than he does on his motorcycle.
More broadly interpreted, it means an emphasis on safety over image. It might be cool to evoke Brando in his blue jeans and leather jacket, but it's safer to wear abrasion-resistant pants and jacket, gloves, and a full-face helmet. You can't wink at the girls at the stoplight as readily wearing a full-face helmet, but you'll fare much better in case of an accident.
At its core, the ATGATT Rat philosophy says, "It doesn't matter what you ride! Just put on your gear, and let's ride!"
Riding the Magna, Anew
How strange it was to ride my Magna again, after having become accustomed to the ST1300. Since the Magna hasn't sold yet, and is licensed and registered, I figured I would ride it to work. I want to keep it happy until I'm able to sell it. Here are my thoughts on riding my old bike anew.
One. What a rush. What a quick bike off the line. With no windshield, the blast of air was exhilarating.
Two. How did I ever endure that seating position? Feet so far forward compared to the ST. All my weight on my spine. I worried the ST would uncomfortable. Now I see it's more comfortable than the Magna.
Three. Turn baby turn. What the heck is wrong with the steering geometry on this bike. The ST turns effortlessly. The worse turning bike I've ever ridden was the V Rod Muscle. By comparison to the two . . . ST and V Rod . . . The Magna is squarely in the middle. Better than the Harley at turning a corner, but cumbersome compared to the ST.
Four. A chain isn't so bad. I welcome the maintenance free aspect of the ST's shaft drive, but I have noticed some drive-train lash. A feeling of sloppiness in transitions from deceleration to acceleration. That, I guess, comes with the territory for shaft drives. The Magna, by comparison, with its chain drive, is smooth in transition from deceleration to acceleration. Like a dream.
The Back Road to Pendleton
Sure, we could take the interstate to get from Indianapolis to Pendleton, but where's the fun in that?
View Larger Map
This route is much better:
Take Olio Road to 104th street. Turn east on 104th Street.
104th street becomes Connecticut Avenue.
Take Connecticut Avenue east, across, SR 238, where it becomes Lick Creek Road.
Lick Creek Road follows the river, and is one of my favorite stretches of country road.
Lick Creek emerges at SR 13 as County Road 1030 S. Turn left (North) on SR 13 for about 100 ft. Turn right on County Road 1000S.
Follow 1000S east to County Road 750W. Jog left on CR 750W, and immediately turn right again on Reformatory Road.
Follow Reformatory Road east to County Road 650W.
Turn left on 650W; continue North to Fall Creek Drive. Take Fall Creek Drive all the way to SR 38 in Pendleton. Turn right on SR 38, into downtown Pendleton. Follow signs for Falls Park.
View Larger Map
This route is much better:
Take Olio Road to 104th street. Turn east on 104th Street.
104th street becomes Connecticut Avenue.
Take Connecticut Avenue east, across, SR 238, where it becomes Lick Creek Road.
Lick Creek Road follows the river, and is one of my favorite stretches of country road.
Lick Creek emerges at SR 13 as County Road 1030 S. Turn left (North) on SR 13 for about 100 ft. Turn right on County Road 1000S.
Follow 1000S east to County Road 750W. Jog left on CR 750W, and immediately turn right again on Reformatory Road.
Follow Reformatory Road east to County Road 650W.
Turn left on 650W; continue North to Fall Creek Drive. Take Fall Creek Drive all the way to SR 38 in Pendleton. Turn right on SR 38, into downtown Pendleton. Follow signs for Falls Park.
River Road
Problem Solved?
I had been having intermittent reboots where the bike would die when at idle.
I removed the seat, and what do you know . . . the negative terminal of the battery was flopping around loose. Fired it up and let it idle for a while afterward . . . and everything seemed fine.
It'll take a while for me to be certain of the fix, since the problem had been intermittent. But, wouldn't it be great if it were that easy to fix?
I hope I didn't jinx it!
Mysterious rebooting ST1300
I've finally gotten some saddle time on my ST1300, and I will say I
love it. I can't say enough good things about it.
Last night as I returned home, I paused outside the garage door, bike
idling, clutch pulled in with my left hand while my right hand fumbled
in my jacket pocket for my garage door opener.
The bike died abruptly. I hit the starter again to pull into the
garage and noticed that the computer had reset. Clock was reset back
to 1:00, trip meter was zero.
What the heck?
This is the second time it has happened, both times at the same
location, both while I was fumbling for the opener.
Could the garage door opener interfere with the bike?
Today I took a ride again. I parked the bike in a parking lot and let it sit for about an hour. When I returned to the bike, I started it and let it idle. It idled for about 2 minutes and then did its mysterious reboot again.
Well, that rules out the garage door opener theory.
Maybe it's a loose battery cable? Maybe it's a loose something else? Maybe there's a glitch in the main computer.
If it were just the clock and trip meter resetting I wouldn't care. But the bike is also dying, abruptly, as if I had hit the kill switch. I don't want to have to worry about the bike dying while I'm riding in traffic. I don't want to be on pins and needles worrying whether it'll die at the most inopportune time.
The first step is to check the battery connectors.
love it. I can't say enough good things about it.
Last night as I returned home, I paused outside the garage door, bike
idling, clutch pulled in with my left hand while my right hand fumbled
in my jacket pocket for my garage door opener.
The bike died abruptly. I hit the starter again to pull into the
garage and noticed that the computer had reset. Clock was reset back
to 1:00, trip meter was zero.
What the heck?
This is the second time it has happened, both times at the same
location, both while I was fumbling for the opener.
Could the garage door opener interfere with the bike?
Today I took a ride again. I parked the bike in a parking lot and let it sit for about an hour. When I returned to the bike, I started it and let it idle. It idled for about 2 minutes and then did its mysterious reboot again.
Well, that rules out the garage door opener theory.
Maybe it's a loose battery cable? Maybe it's a loose something else? Maybe there's a glitch in the main computer.
If it were just the clock and trip meter resetting I wouldn't care. But the bike is also dying, abruptly, as if I had hit the kill switch. I don't want to have to worry about the bike dying while I'm riding in traffic. I don't want to be on pins and needles worrying whether it'll die at the most inopportune time.
The first step is to check the battery connectors.
The perfect gauge
Sport Commuter
Dyna Beads?!
I paid the local Honda dealer to install a new front tire on my ST1300. since I have no tire changing experience or equipment.
When I picked up the bike I saw a line item on the work order I wasn't expecting:
Dyna Beads
I had to look it up. It turns out "Dyna Beads" is a product of Innovative Balancing, which supposedly dynamically balances the tire.
However, the previous front tire was badly cupped. Dyna Beads claims to reduce cupping. We'll see how this product performs in my real-life test.
When I picked up the bike I saw a line item on the work order I wasn't expecting:
Dyna Beads
I had to look it up. It turns out "Dyna Beads" is a product of Innovative Balancing, which supposedly dynamically balances the tire.
From their website:
The website included lots of pictures and information about installation.
I hadn't intended to participate in a product trial, but I guess I am. The dealer didn't ask me about this, they just did it. Dyna beads uses a high-density ceramic bead that, when ...installed, continuously balances your tires as you drive. The amount of material will distribute itself in weight and position dependent on the balance requirements of the individual tire.
The result is a smooth, vibration-free ride, derived from our balancing media that is always repositioning itself as the tire wears. If you own a pickup truck, commercial truck, motorhome, RV, tractor trailer, motorcycle, or similar vehicle, and want to get rid of those wheel vibration and tire cupping problems, then you need to move up to Dyna Beads®!
The website included lots of pictures and information about installation.
However, the previous front tire was badly cupped. Dyna Beads claims to reduce cupping. We'll see how this product performs in my real-life test.
Motorcycles Made Of Watches
Helmet Or Heels found some fascinating moto-related kitsch -- Motorcycle Made Out Of Watches...
What's This Farkle For?
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Reflections
I'm trying to get ideas for a new logo for ATGATTRAT. I'll need to enlist professional help, I think.
F@& Birds
Left my bike in the parking lot while running an errand. Returned to it to find birds had been trying target practice.
Oh, crap!
At least it was the passenger seat, and was riding solo.
ST Passenger Backrest
Now begins the search for the ST backrest ... the one piece of after-market equipment my new bike is lacking.
Premiere Cycle Accessories has a good looking one.
Premiere Cycle Accessories has a good looking one.
Bringing him up right
My son has ridden behind me since he could reach the foot pegs.
I've always insisted on full gear -- helmet, gloves, boots, mesh jacket and riding pants. Jacket and pants have been especially hard to find. We've had to borrow from the "Dirt Riding" realm, which has a broad range of gear for kids. Street riding gear for kids is almost non-existent in the U.S.; some we've had to import from Europe.
We talk openly about safety with our kids.
Spring Ride
Wiring Your Bike For Heat -- Heated Gear Installation
Heated gear extends my riding season. I'm able to ride comfortably down to the freezing point with heated gear. Without it, I'm shivering below fifty degrees.
The heated gear involves a special jacket, worn under my regular riding gear, which is laced with high-resistance wires which generate heat when an electrical current passes through them... just like an electric blanket.
The gear is powered from the bike's battery. This requires installation of a special wiring harness which attaches to the battery and provides a plug in for the heated gear.
In my case, I have a Gerbing heated jacket, and so have also purchased the Gerbing wiring harness and temperature controller. These are each sold separately.
To install the wiring harness, you'll need access to the battery.
The exact steps for accessing the battery will vary from bike to bike. Check your owner's manual. But usually, accessing the battery requires removing the seat and possibly one of the side-covers.
1. Remove the seat.
For the Honda ST1300, this involves opening the saddlebag-bracket lock on the left side of the bike, and pulling the seat release lever.
Pull the seat slightly up and to the rear of the bike to release.
For the Honda Magna, this involves removing the three seat bolts (stock seat) or one seat bolt (after-market seat).
2. Remove the side cover.
For the Honda ST1300, there are three bolts holding the side cover in place.
For the Honda Magna, this step is not required.
3. Disconnect the battery
Remove the bolts from the battery terminals, one at a time. The black wire of the wiring harness goes over the negative terminal of the battery; red over the positive terminal.
4. Position the plug
Thread the wiring harness carefully so that the plug is accessible under the edge of the seat. On the Honda Magna, the most logical place for the plug seemed to be the front edge of the seat, since there was a ready-made notch between the gas tank and the seat.
For the Honda ST1300, given the shape of the seat, it was easier to position the plug at the left side of the seat.
Just make sure the wiring doesn't block the seat's locking or clamping mechanism. And keep the end of the plug from the engine or exhaust.
Replace the side cover, then the seat, and you're ready to go.
The heated gear involves a special jacket, worn under my regular riding gear, which is laced with high-resistance wires which generate heat when an electrical current passes through them... just like an electric blanket.
The gear is powered from the bike's battery. This requires installation of a special wiring harness which attaches to the battery and provides a plug in for the heated gear.
In my case, I have a Gerbing heated jacket, and so have also purchased the Gerbing wiring harness and temperature controller. These are each sold separately.
To install the wiring harness, you'll need access to the battery.
The exact steps for accessing the battery will vary from bike to bike. Check your owner's manual. But usually, accessing the battery requires removing the seat and possibly one of the side-covers.
1. Remove the seat.
For the Honda ST1300, this involves opening the saddlebag-bracket lock on the left side of the bike, and pulling the seat release lever.
Pull the seat slightly up and to the rear of the bike to release.
For the Honda Magna, this involves removing the three seat bolts (stock seat) or one seat bolt (after-market seat).
2. Remove the side cover.
For the Honda ST1300, there are three bolts holding the side cover in place.
For the Honda Magna, this step is not required.
3. Disconnect the battery
Remove the bolts from the battery terminals, one at a time. The black wire of the wiring harness goes over the negative terminal of the battery; red over the positive terminal.
4. Position the plug
Thread the wiring harness carefully so that the plug is accessible under the edge of the seat. On the Honda Magna, the most logical place for the plug seemed to be the front edge of the seat, since there was a ready-made notch between the gas tank and the seat.
For the Honda ST1300, given the shape of the seat, it was easier to position the plug at the left side of the seat.
Just make sure the wiring doesn't block the seat's locking or clamping mechanism. And keep the end of the plug from the engine or exhaust.
Replace the side cover, then the seat, and you're ready to go.
Cold Weather Ride
I bought my "new to me" ST1300 last Saturday and brought it home. I took it for a ride on Sunday, and again on Tuesday night. Then we were plunged into a cold snap, and it's been rainy and cold for the past several days.
This afternoon while working in my home office, slaving over bills and tax forms, I noticed the thermometer perched atop the 45 degree mark.
Time for a ride!
First, I installed the wiring harness for my Gerbing heated gear. It attaches to the battery of the bike, and allows me to plug in my controller and my heated jacket. Installation was a snap. Honda finally wised up and put bolts to hold on the side cover. I'm sure fewer side covers are lost on this model of bike than on the previous model, with friction fit rubber tabs holding on the side cover.
Fired up the bike. Gotta love that fuel injection. No messing with choke. She purred along happily while I donned my gear.
Out on the street the face shield on my full-face helmet was fogging up. I rolled up the power windshield, and opened my face mask about an inch.
The bike purred along happily, and with heated gear on max, I was actually getting toasty. I think the full fairing plus windshield plus heated gear will afford plenty of protection from the cold.
A quick 4 mile ride "around the block" was all I had time for. But I blew out the cobwebs from my brain, and arrived back home with a smile on my face.
Now, back to work.
This afternoon while working in my home office, slaving over bills and tax forms, I noticed the thermometer perched atop the 45 degree mark.
Time for a ride!
First, I installed the wiring harness for my Gerbing heated gear. It attaches to the battery of the bike, and allows me to plug in my controller and my heated jacket. Installation was a snap. Honda finally wised up and put bolts to hold on the side cover. I'm sure fewer side covers are lost on this model of bike than on the previous model, with friction fit rubber tabs holding on the side cover.
Fired up the bike. Gotta love that fuel injection. No messing with choke. She purred along happily while I donned my gear.
Out on the street the face shield on my full-face helmet was fogging up. I rolled up the power windshield, and opened my face mask about an inch.
The bike purred along happily, and with heated gear on max, I was actually getting toasty. I think the full fairing plus windshield plus heated gear will afford plenty of protection from the cold.
A quick 4 mile ride "around the block" was all I had time for. But I blew out the cobwebs from my brain, and arrived back home with a smile on my face.
Now, back to work.
www.ST-Owners.com
I'm not used to such a fancy online forum as the ST-Owners. Since beginning my search for an ST1300A, culminating finally with my purchase of the bike last week, I've begun to explore the st-owner's site.
Back when I owned an older Goldwing, I found a helpful community at goldwingfacts.com -- which was especially attuned to the needs of owners of older Goldwings. I also used to frequent "Naked Gold Wings", as I imagined at the time that I would strip my 1982 Interstate "naked". These plans never materialized, and I sold the bike intact a year after purchasing it.
Then I bought a Magna. For whatever reason, I never got involved with a "Magna Owners Group", though there were a few out there. Perhaps it was the fact that it was a dead bike, no longer in production. Perhaps it was the fact that the folks at SabMag met all my needs.
I've been a member of SabMag for the past 7 years -- as much as anyone can be a member of a loose affiliation of folks who have no formal organizational structure or membership. Don't get me wrong, they're a great bunch of folks. They just don't have a fancy organizational structure, or even a fancy website. They're essentially a listserv -- and beneath that, in the real world, a community of folks who love motorcycles and who now, or at some time in the past, owned a Honda V4 such as a Magna, Sabre, Interceptor, or ST.
Back when I owned an older Goldwing, I found a helpful community at goldwingfacts.com -- which was especially attuned to the needs of owners of older Goldwings. I also used to frequent "Naked Gold Wings", as I imagined at the time that I would strip my 1982 Interstate "naked". These plans never materialized, and I sold the bike intact a year after purchasing it.
Then I bought a Magna. For whatever reason, I never got involved with a "Magna Owners Group", though there were a few out there. Perhaps it was the fact that it was a dead bike, no longer in production. Perhaps it was the fact that the folks at SabMag met all my needs.
I've been a member of SabMag for the past 7 years -- as much as anyone can be a member of a loose affiliation of folks who have no formal organizational structure or membership. Don't get me wrong, they're a great bunch of folks. They just don't have a fancy organizational structure, or even a fancy website. They're essentially a listserv -- and beneath that, in the real world, a community of folks who love motorcycles and who now, or at some time in the past, owned a Honda V4 such as a Magna, Sabre, Interceptor, or ST.
How To Trailer A Motorcycle (Or Not)
Trailering a motorcycle can be a convenience or a necessity. Some folks choose to trailer their bikes to a large rally, then ride the bikes around town once they're there. (I call that CHEATING! But that's another story.) Other times, when a bike breaks down it has to be transported to a mechanic, or back home to your own shop to work on it.
I've trailered a few bikes over the years, and I've made mistakes along the way. From my experience, here's a list of what NOT to do.
1. Don't try this alone.
Bikes are heavy. Unless you can pick it up with one hand, you shouldn't try loading it on a trailer by yourself. Get help. At a minimum, you'll need someone to stand on the other side of the bike. If a bike starts to fall, it's easy for the person on the downside of the bike to position themselves to keep it from falling -- provided it hasn't tipped too far. It's almost impossible, and actually dangerous, for the person on the high side of the bike to try to stop its fall.
2. Don't forget the chock.
Expensive chocks are available to immobilize the front wheel. Inexpensive alternatives are available on eBay or your favorite dealership. Even a few blocks of wood fastened to the floor would do. Chocks keep the front wheel from moving, keeping the bike centered and upright. It's the foundation.
Adequate: Basic Motorcycle Chock
3. Don't use the kickstand.
A center stand might be okay to use, as it stabilizes the bike and centers it. But don't use the kickstand. Given the other stresses on the bike and the bouncing that will occur, the kickstand could bend. Or worse, could force the bike to tip with repeated bouncing.
I actually use neither the center stand nor the kickstand, because I personally believe that the bike's suspension is better able to absorb the bumps in the road.
4. Don't skimp on tie-down straps.
The best kind of tie-down straps are the ratcheting variety. Unless you're a body builder, you'll find it very hard to secure the bike using the "cam-buckle" straps, which rely on your own strength to tighten the strap. The cam-buckle prevents the strap from slipping lose, but offers no assistance in tightening the strap.
The ratcheting strap, available at Walmart, at most Automotive Supply as well as specialty stores, uses a little lever handle to tighten the strap.
5. Don't under-tighten your straps.
Your objective in strapping down the bike is to compress the front suspension and place enough tension on the straps that the bike is held fast. A bump shouldn't loosen the straps. There should not be enough play in the strap that a bounce allows the strap hook to come free from its
anchor.
6. Don't over-tighten your straps.
Compress the forks with your tie down straps, but leave some room for more shock absorption. The bike will still compress the forks further when it hits the bump. If you remove all the travel from the shocks by compressing them fully, the shock of the bump will be transmitted freely to the bike. This will place undo strain on the shocks themselves, and to the bike. This is a good way to destroy your fork seals, and is completely unnecessary.
7. Don't hook the handlebars.
It might be tempting to use the handlebars as a place to secure the straps. Don't do it. They're not built for this. Depending on the bike, the handlebars could twist or bend under the strain. Better to attach to the lower end of the triple tree, around each fork. This is much more able to withstand the strain, and won't bent or shift.
8. Don't put a metal hook anyway near your bike.
Find yourself a set of "soft loops", sometimes called "soft straps", which are also available at trailer supply shops and some automotive shops. Harder to find than the cam-buckle or ratcheting straps, but a necessity if you care about your paint. These loops can loop around your triple tree, and extend perhaps a foot from your bike. Hook your ratcheting straps to these loops, and you're keeping the hard metal hooks well away from your bike.
This photo shows the soft loops attached to the triple tree as described, and metal the hooks a safe distance from the bike.
9. Don't forget the back of the bike.
The primary means of securing the bike is by compressing the front forks. For the rear of the bike, you need to minimizing bouncing and keep it from shifting from side to side. Resist the temptation to use a luggage rack as a tie down point, as it's not built to withstand that kind of force.
Better to attach to the body of the bike, the wheel itself, or the swingarm.
10. Check Your Work!
Take your time to secure your bike before moving the trailer. After driving a mile, stop and recheck everything. Things shift on the trailer as you hit bumps and make turns.
Stop again after 10 miles and recheck your work. Once you've made it ten miles, you can ride for hundreds of miles if necessary.
If it rains, and your bike and straps are exposed to the weather, check them again. Water may loosen the straps or cause them to stretch.
Follow these tips and you'll have many miles of safe trailering, and your bike will arrive unscathed.
I've trailered a few bikes over the years, and I've made mistakes along the way. From my experience, here's a list of what NOT to do.
1. Don't try this alone.
Bikes are heavy. Unless you can pick it up with one hand, you shouldn't try loading it on a trailer by yourself. Get help. At a minimum, you'll need someone to stand on the other side of the bike. If a bike starts to fall, it's easy for the person on the downside of the bike to position themselves to keep it from falling -- provided it hasn't tipped too far. It's almost impossible, and actually dangerous, for the person on the high side of the bike to try to stop its fall.
2. Don't forget the chock.
Expensive chocks are available to immobilize the front wheel. Inexpensive alternatives are available on eBay or your favorite dealership. Even a few blocks of wood fastened to the floor would do. Chocks keep the front wheel from moving, keeping the bike centered and upright. It's the foundation.
Adequate: Basic Motorcycle Chock
3. Don't use the kickstand.
A center stand might be okay to use, as it stabilizes the bike and centers it. But don't use the kickstand. Given the other stresses on the bike and the bouncing that will occur, the kickstand could bend. Or worse, could force the bike to tip with repeated bouncing.
I actually use neither the center stand nor the kickstand, because I personally believe that the bike's suspension is better able to absorb the bumps in the road.
4. Don't skimp on tie-down straps.
The best kind of tie-down straps are the ratcheting variety. Unless you're a body builder, you'll find it very hard to secure the bike using the "cam-buckle" straps, which rely on your own strength to tighten the strap. The cam-buckle prevents the strap from slipping lose, but offers no assistance in tightening the strap.
| Bad: Cambuckle Tie-Down | Good: Ratcheting Tie-Down |
|---|---|
 |  |
The ratcheting strap, available at Walmart, at most Automotive Supply as well as specialty stores, uses a little lever handle to tighten the strap.
5. Don't under-tighten your straps.
Your objective in strapping down the bike is to compress the front suspension and place enough tension on the straps that the bike is held fast. A bump shouldn't loosen the straps. There should not be enough play in the strap that a bounce allows the strap hook to come free from its
anchor.
6. Don't over-tighten your straps.
Compress the forks with your tie down straps, but leave some room for more shock absorption. The bike will still compress the forks further when it hits the bump. If you remove all the travel from the shocks by compressing them fully, the shock of the bump will be transmitted freely to the bike. This will place undo strain on the shocks themselves, and to the bike. This is a good way to destroy your fork seals, and is completely unnecessary.
7. Don't hook the handlebars.
It might be tempting to use the handlebars as a place to secure the straps. Don't do it. They're not built for this. Depending on the bike, the handlebars could twist or bend under the strain. Better to attach to the lower end of the triple tree, around each fork. This is much more able to withstand the strain, and won't bent or shift.
8. Don't put a metal hook anyway near your bike.
Find yourself a set of "soft loops", sometimes called "soft straps", which are also available at trailer supply shops and some automotive shops. Harder to find than the cam-buckle or ratcheting straps, but a necessity if you care about your paint. These loops can loop around your triple tree, and extend perhaps a foot from your bike. Hook your ratcheting straps to these loops, and you're keeping the hard metal hooks well away from your bike.
9. Don't forget the back of the bike.
The primary means of securing the bike is by compressing the front forks. For the rear of the bike, you need to minimizing bouncing and keep it from shifting from side to side. Resist the temptation to use a luggage rack as a tie down point, as it's not built to withstand that kind of force.
Better to attach to the body of the bike, the wheel itself, or the swingarm.
10. Check Your Work!
Take your time to secure your bike before moving the trailer. After driving a mile, stop and recheck everything. Things shift on the trailer as you hit bumps and make turns.
Stop again after 10 miles and recheck your work. Once you've made it ten miles, you can ride for hundreds of miles if necessary.
If it rains, and your bike and straps are exposed to the weather, check them again. Water may loosen the straps or cause them to stretch.
Follow these tips and you'll have many miles of safe trailering, and your bike will arrive unscathed.
The Trailering Of The Bike
My wife snapped some photos of "The Trailering Of The Bike".
The ST didn't jump off the ramp like they've been known to do. You may not know, they have a reputation for hating trailers. They prefer to be ridden.
Saddlebags removed.
I didn't like the position of the rear straps. The buckle was too near the exhaust pipe and would've banged against it with every bump.
I used the passenger grab rail as a tie down point. My fellow ST owners have since told me this was a risky move ... the grab rail is not made for that kind of stress and has been known to break in similar circumstances. I got lucky.
We're both happy with the sale.
Ready to roll.
My son helped me unload. My wife on one side, me on the other, and my son behind to ease it down the ramp.
My daughter helped me fish the soft straps from around the triple trees. Her small hands have been put to use working on bikes before. She can reach things inside the bike's frame that I cannot.
The proud owner.
The ST didn't jump off the ramp like they've been known to do. You may not know, they have a reputation for hating trailers. They prefer to be ridden.
Saddlebags removed.
I didn't like the position of the rear straps. The buckle was too near the exhaust pipe and would've banged against it with every bump.
I used the passenger grab rail as a tie down point. My fellow ST owners have since told me this was a risky move ... the grab rail is not made for that kind of stress and has been known to break in similar circumstances. I got lucky.
We're both happy with the sale.
Ready to roll.
My son helped me unload. My wife on one side, me on the other, and my son behind to ease it down the ramp.
My daughter helped me fish the soft straps from around the triple trees. Her small hands have been put to use working on bikes before. She can reach things inside the bike's frame that I cannot.
The proud owner.
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