ME: Hi, my name is Ted and I'm a bike-a-holic.
GROUP: Hi, Ted.
ME: It's been two weeks since my last ride. Man, winter sucks. I'm going freaking insane. How am I gonna last til spring? I keep hoping for a day above freezing, I'm not really into riding on ice.
I'm gonna trailer my bike 300 miles (900 miles? ) south to where it's 35 degrees and ride. I swear to God I will.
This is my first winter with the fever. Last winter didn't count, I had barely ridden 20 miles (career total) by the time snow started falling, so I didn't really have any withdrawal pains last winter.
Any of you veterans have any words of wisdom?
Grunting And Thumping
My daily rider V30 has developed a strange intermittent behavior that so far I have not been able to diagnose. I'm still working on it, but I thought I'd sound off and see if anyone else has any ideas.
There is a rhythmic thumping sensation, which I feel in my footpegs rather than hear, the appears when I'm accelerating out of a turn. I have also noticed it when accelerating in the straightaway.
The thumping seems to be tied to ground speed, not tachometer.
It usually does not appear when I'm traveling at higher speeds, nor when I'm traveling at a steady pace. Only when accelerating moderately. Heavy acceleration does not produce this thumping.
The tires are fine, no tread separation, no defects. The chain seems fine, is well lubed, and rear sprocket is not bent. Rear wheel alignment is okay.
Rear tire, chain and sprocket are all on my list to replace this winter.
I'd entertain any thoughts or suggestions (except "go buy an FJR"). My guess is a worn or sticking link in the chain, which is not apparent to me with the chain on the bike. My other guess would be an emerging tire problem, also not visible to the naked eye.
I will perhaps know the answer better when the snow falls and I replace the rear tire and chain. Meanwhile, if there are other suggestions it might point me in a direction that leads me to a solution....
There is a rhythmic thumping sensation, which I feel in my footpegs rather than hear, the appears when I'm accelerating out of a turn. I have also noticed it when accelerating in the straightaway.
The thumping seems to be tied to ground speed, not tachometer.
It usually does not appear when I'm traveling at higher speeds, nor when I'm traveling at a steady pace. Only when accelerating moderately. Heavy acceleration does not produce this thumping.
The tires are fine, no tread separation, no defects. The chain seems fine, is well lubed, and rear sprocket is not bent. Rear wheel alignment is okay.
Rear tire, chain and sprocket are all on my list to replace this winter.
I'd entertain any thoughts or suggestions (except "go buy an FJR"). My guess is a worn or sticking link in the chain, which is not apparent to me with the chain on the bike. My other guess would be an emerging tire problem, also not visible to the naked eye.
I will perhaps know the answer better when the snow falls and I replace the rear tire and chain. Meanwhile, if there are other suggestions it might point me in a direction that leads me to a solution....
This Affliction
This curse, this motorcycle bug, still has hold of me.
41 degrees and 50% chance of rain today greet me when I arise, and I don my gear anyway, and ride to the office.
My speedometer cable squeals from 20 mph to 60 mph for a few miles, til things warm up. Wind gusts of 20 mph try to sneak into my leather. My only vulnerable spot is my throat, which is open to the air.
I arrive dry, anyway, if not warm. Fingers are a little stiff from the cold. Could use better gloves.
My buddy, who sits next to me, didn't ride his BMW R1150R today. I chide him because he even has heated gloves. "If I had hundred dollar heated gloves by Gawd I'd use em."
"You could just drive your car," he said.
"Hadn't even occurred to me," I said.
This evening's ride home catches me in a wintery rain when I'm just 10 miles out.
No sense donning the rain suit for just 10 miles.
My wife kindly wipes my leathers down for me when I arrive home. Bike just drips dry in the garage.
"Done for the season?" she asks, though she knows the answer.
"Hell, no! There's no rain in the forecast for tomorrow," I reply. "And you know, aside from my throat, I'm not even cold or wet."
She gave me a sideward glance. Maybe she just had an idea of what to get me for my birthday, next month.
Ride on!
41 degrees and 50% chance of rain today greet me when I arise, and I don my gear anyway, and ride to the office.
My speedometer cable squeals from 20 mph to 60 mph for a few miles, til things warm up. Wind gusts of 20 mph try to sneak into my leather. My only vulnerable spot is my throat, which is open to the air.
I arrive dry, anyway, if not warm. Fingers are a little stiff from the cold. Could use better gloves.
My buddy, who sits next to me, didn't ride his BMW R1150R today. I chide him because he even has heated gloves. "If I had hundred dollar heated gloves by Gawd I'd use em."
"You could just drive your car," he said.
"Hadn't even occurred to me," I said.
This evening's ride home catches me in a wintery rain when I'm just 10 miles out.
No sense donning the rain suit for just 10 miles.
My wife kindly wipes my leathers down for me when I arrive home. Bike just drips dry in the garage.
"Done for the season?" she asks, though she knows the answer.
"Hell, no! There's no rain in the forecast for tomorrow," I reply. "And you know, aside from my throat, I'm not even cold or wet."
She gave me a sideward glance. Maybe she just had an idea of what to get me for my birthday, next month.
Ride on!
Kid's Gear
Contact me offlist if you have some kid's gear you'd be willing to sell me cheap
My son is Age 6 and is Ready To Ride Pillion. Bought a HJC CL14Y helmet for him, matches his daddy's CL14. But he has no jacket nor pants.
I don't feel right wearing my super suit, "all the gear all the time" but hauling my own flesh-and-blood wearing jeans, flannel shirt, no gloves, tennis shoes, and a full-face helmet. Just doesn't seem right.
I'm fortunate to have a wife who rides and who'll let the kids ride too. Most of my MC buddies at work have wives (or ex-wives) who wouldn't ride, wouldn't let the kids ride.
Don't have much money ( I am a maggot! ) but if you've got some kids gear that you're not using anymore maybe we can take it off your hands and give you something for it.
Also have a 3 year old daughter who will be riding soon too.
Here's hoping. .... thanks ...
My son is Age 6 and is Ready To Ride Pillion. Bought a HJC CL14Y helmet for him, matches his daddy's CL14. But he has no jacket nor pants.
I don't feel right wearing my super suit, "all the gear all the time" but hauling my own flesh-and-blood wearing jeans, flannel shirt, no gloves, tennis shoes, and a full-face helmet. Just doesn't seem right.
I'm fortunate to have a wife who rides and who'll let the kids ride too. Most of my MC buddies at work have wives (or ex-wives) who wouldn't ride, wouldn't let the kids ride.
Don't have much money ( I am a maggot! ) but if you've got some kids gear that you're not using anymore maybe we can take it off your hands and give you something for it.
Also have a 3 year old daughter who will be riding soon too.
Here's hoping. .... thanks ...
Re: Next Bike Dreams
I confessed I liked the 'Wing I sat on at the dealership, and someone replied:
>>Ack! That's it. Suscribe to AARP
I'm only 38. I don't really want the big touring package like the 'Wing. But the 'Wing just fit right. It was, as the automotive design engineers say it, ergonomically correct. I don't hear that term used much in MC circles, but I want a bike that fits me right.
It doesn't mean I want a cushy tushy saddle. But I close my eyes and hold out my hands to where I imagine they ought to be on the ideal bike -- and voila, there are the Wing's grips.
I close my eyes and pull up my feet (the bike was on display in a front-wheel lock so I could do this) and voila -- the pegs and pedals are all right where they ought to be.
Aside from the ST1300's seat, it didn't have these ideal ergonomics. I could make it work, but it felt like sitting on someone else's bike. The Wing felt like it fit me. Ironically, so does my V30. You wouldn't think of those two fitting the same person, but they do. A strange combination of inseam and sleeve length I guess, I don' t know.
I'll try the same on a Valkyrie, as it was suggested on list. I'll enjoy the search, even though it's only a dream right now.
>>Ack! That's it. Suscribe to AARP
I'm only 38. I don't really want the big touring package like the 'Wing. But the 'Wing just fit right. It was, as the automotive design engineers say it, ergonomically correct. I don't hear that term used much in MC circles, but I want a bike that fits me right.
It doesn't mean I want a cushy tushy saddle. But I close my eyes and hold out my hands to where I imagine they ought to be on the ideal bike -- and voila, there are the Wing's grips.
I close my eyes and pull up my feet (the bike was on display in a front-wheel lock so I could do this) and voila -- the pegs and pedals are all right where they ought to be.
Aside from the ST1300's seat, it didn't have these ideal ergonomics. I could make it work, but it felt like sitting on someone else's bike. The Wing felt like it fit me. Ironically, so does my V30. You wouldn't think of those two fitting the same person, but they do. A strange combination of inseam and sleeve length I guess, I don' t know.
I'll try the same on a Valkyrie, as it was suggested on list. I'll enjoy the search, even though it's only a dream right now.
Next Bike Dreams
First time sitting on several bikes:
Sat on an ST1100 and an ST1300 finally. Didn't like them, I'm sorry to say. The seats felt like plywood -- very uncomfortable.
Sat on an 2005 Interceptor -- and though I like the looks I know I'd ride for one block and my shoulders would start hurting.
Sat on a 2004 ZZR1000 and like it better than the Interceptor.
Sat on a Gold Wing and wow, I liked it. Comfortable. I could ride to Reno on that bike. I'd like to find a big with that comfort and seating position, without all the bells and whistles. I don't need a CD player, CB radio, blah blah blah.
I know this is a tired thread, so at the risk of beating a dead horse:
Where's an 80's Magna-lover to go for their next bike? Tonight, I'm thinking Wing!
Sat on an ST1100 and an ST1300 finally. Didn't like them, I'm sorry to say. The seats felt like plywood -- very uncomfortable.
Sat on an 2005 Interceptor -- and though I like the looks I know I'd ride for one block and my shoulders would start hurting.
Sat on a 2004 ZZR1000 and like it better than the Interceptor.
Sat on a Gold Wing and wow, I liked it. Comfortable. I could ride to Reno on that bike. I'd like to find a big with that comfort and seating position, without all the bells and whistles. I don't need a CD player, CB radio, blah blah blah.
I know this is a tired thread, so at the risk of beating a dead horse:
Where's an 80's Magna-lover to go for their next bike? Tonight, I'm thinking Wing!
Phantom Leak
I wrote last week about my wife's tank dripping gasoline onto the rear head. I saw with my own eyes the gasoline sheeting down the fuel line from the tank. But I could not spot the leak in the tank.
I took off the tank, disconnect the fuel line and vent tube from the main tank. They were so tight, I can't imagine that they were leaking...
I plugged the drain and vent, filled the tank with a gallon, and waited. Not a drop.
WTF?
I removed the fuel line and vent tube from the reserve tank, and inspected them. They appear fine. I filled them with water, plugged up one end and tried to blow on the other end. Not a drip, not a drop escaped.
I can't make the mofo tank leak!
My wife's wanting to ride, so I'm gonna put it all back together and save the POR-15 tank treatment (and choke cable replacement) for sometime in freeking january, so she can get back on the road.
We'll keep a close eye on it. Hopefully she'll be able to stop and hop off the bike just before it bursts into flames!
I took off the tank, disconnect the fuel line and vent tube from the main tank. They were so tight, I can't imagine that they were leaking...
I plugged the drain and vent, filled the tank with a gallon, and waited. Not a drop.
WTF?
I removed the fuel line and vent tube from the reserve tank, and inspected them. They appear fine. I filled them with water, plugged up one end and tried to blow on the other end. Not a drip, not a drop escaped.
I can't make the mofo tank leak!
My wife's wanting to ride, so I'm gonna put it all back together and save the POR-15 tank treatment (and choke cable replacement) for sometime in freeking january, so she can get back on the road.
We'll keep a close eye on it. Hopefully she'll be able to stop and hop off the bike just before it bursts into flames!
RE: Leaky Tank
I originally asked: is there a gas tank leak stopper treatment that you wouldrecommend?
And off-list replies confirmed that POR-15 is the way to go. I placed my order on their website tonight.
I'll report back my POR-15 experience when I'm done.
And off-list replies confirmed that POR-15 is the way to go. I placed my order on their website tonight.
I'll report back my POR-15 experience when I'm done.
Leaky Tank
It's me again.
Both V30's have been running trouble free since June 6, when I got mine back into service. So we were due for a little tinkering, I reckon.
My wife gets home from her night ride. I notice a gas smell from her bike. I hear a dripping/sizzling sound, liquid dripping onto hot surface and sizzling.
Did you overfill your tank?
No.
A little bit of poking around confirmed that gas was dripping from under the tank onto the rear head. It was sheeting down the tube and running.
I siphoned the gas out of the tank and tipped it up for a better look.
I'm assuming it's the tank and not the tubing.. If that is a correct assumption, is there a gas tank leak stopper treatment that you would recommend?
Meanwhile I'm off to browse for V30 gas tanks on eBay.
Meanwhile, I'm riding mine to work every day. I offered her the use of my V30 for her evening rides until I get her tank fixed.
Both V30's have been running trouble free since June 6, when I got mine back into service. So we were due for a little tinkering, I reckon.
My wife gets home from her night ride. I notice a gas smell from her bike. I hear a dripping/sizzling sound, liquid dripping onto hot surface and sizzling.
Did you overfill your tank?
No.
A little bit of poking around confirmed that gas was dripping from under the tank onto the rear head. It was sheeting down the tube and running.
I siphoned the gas out of the tank and tipped it up for a better look.
I'm assuming it's the tank and not the tubing.. If that is a correct assumption, is there a gas tank leak stopper treatment that you would recommend?
Meanwhile I'm off to browse for V30 gas tanks on eBay.
Meanwhile, I'm riding mine to work every day. I offered her the use of my V30 for her evening rides until I get her tank fixed.
Conversations
I think I found a source for fiche that may have what I'm looking for. I don't have a fiche reader, but I assume I can read it with my wife's negative loop (photography magnifying glass).
When somebody pounces on you around here it's because it's fun. Treat this place like a biker bar and when somebody pounces, don't worry about it. The language might be caustic, but them message is still there.
I understand and appreciate it. Hell, I get pounced on at work with my motorcyclist friends too. All in good fun. I didn't part ways with them when they started calling me Mr. Incredible (for wearing an "super suit" whenever I ride.) And this list isn't gonna get rid of me that easy either.
BTW, how many miles have you put on those V30s this year. Is your wife riding as planned?
About 800 to 1000 miles a piece. With two small kids, we can't easily do any trips, so its 1000 miles of riding around town. I ride to work everyday, unless it's physically thunderstorming as I leave my front door, then I take the cage. My wife wants to ride more than she is able. We're still enjoying it and looking forward to taking the kids with us when they get a little older, and we get a little more experienced.
Hondaline is a separate business from Honda ...they scrap the entire thing when the next model comes along. Too bad for us...
Good to know. I've got some leads on eBay -- there are V30's being parted out there at a rate of about a per week. Something'll turn up.
When somebody pounces on you around here it's because it's fun. Treat this place like a biker bar and when somebody pounces, don't worry about it. The language might be caustic, but them message is still there.
I understand and appreciate it. Hell, I get pounced on at work with my motorcyclist friends too. All in good fun. I didn't part ways with them when they started calling me Mr. Incredible (for wearing an "super suit" whenever I ride.) And this list isn't gonna get rid of me that easy either.
BTW, how many miles have you put on those V30s this year. Is your wife riding as planned?
About 800 to 1000 miles a piece. With two small kids, we can't easily do any trips, so its 1000 miles of riding around town. I ride to work everyday, unless it's physically thunderstorming as I leave my front door, then I take the cage. My wife wants to ride more than she is able. We're still enjoying it and looking forward to taking the kids with us when they get a little older, and we get a little more experienced.
Hondaline is a separate business from Honda ...they scrap the entire thing when the next model comes along. Too bad for us...
Good to know. I've got some leads on eBay -- there are V30's being parted out there at a rate of about a per week. Something'll turn up.
VF500 and VT500 Parts
I'm in the market for a V30 backrest for my wife's bike. I've been watching eBay and scouring every parts site online I could find, as well as the local bike "recycler". So far, no luck.
I'm wondering about interchangeability between certain VT500 and VF500 parts. In fact the info that I've found online indicates there is some overlap between these bikes -- Honda had a code for parts which belonged to both bikes. I'm not sure that scouring for VT500 parts is going to increase my chances over simply including VF500 parts, but I wanna give it a try.
Anyone know where I can find the 80's era hondaline part numbers for accessories?
I'm wondering about interchangeability between certain VT500 and VF500 parts. In fact the info that I've found online indicates there is some overlap between these bikes -- Honda had a code for parts which belonged to both bikes. I'm not sure that scouring for VT500 parts is going to increase my chances over simply including VF500 parts, but I wanna give it a try.
Anyone know where I can find the 80's era hondaline part numbers for accessories?
Lovely Lady Riders
My wife's biker friend rode to our house this morning at 9. My wife and she each rode their own bikes to a bike rally nearby, a fundraiser for something. It was an excuse for my wife to get out and ride. About 50 miles round trip was all. She enjoyedriding with her friend, whose riding style is similar.
Rode To Work
Rode to work again today. No problems getting there.
It was 91 degrees and about 95% humidity when I left. Hot, especially for someone who rides in full gear.
Usually I put my mesh pants over my work pants for the ride to and from work; and wear my mesh jacket over my work shirt.
This afternoon I changed out of my regular work pants. I wore mesh pants over my skivvies.
I tried a suggestion I had read on the sabmag list: wetting my T-shirt and putting it on under my jacket. It worked great! I was cool the entire trip.
It was 91 degrees and about 95% humidity when I left. Hot, especially for someone who rides in full gear.
Usually I put my mesh pants over my work pants for the ride to and from work; and wear my mesh jacket over my work shirt.
This afternoon I changed out of my regular work pants. I wore mesh pants over my skivvies.
I tried a suggestion I had read on the sabmag list: wetting my T-shirt and putting it on under my jacket. It worked great! I was cool the entire trip.
Chain Maintenance
CP read about my average miles between chain maintenance, and then decided:
Ok, then you're off the hook, but.....
The real crime in all of this is that I only rode 300 miles in 9 months! It makes me wanna cry just to think about it!
Yes, that is a crime. Give it to me so it won't feel neglected.
Not a chance, CP. Worked hard to get it running again and now I'm going to enjoy it!
Much better. You learn quickly grasshopper.
On CP's advice I adjusted my chain this afternoon. My 6 year old son helped me, which usually doubles the length of any task -- but even so it only took me less than half an hour.
Meanwhile, as I write this, my wife has been out riding for about 3 hours while I put the kids to bed. Wonder when she's planning on coming back????
Ok, then you're off the hook, but.....
The real crime in all of this is that I only rode 300 miles in 9 months! It makes me wanna cry just to think about it!
Yes, that is a crime. Give it to me so it won't feel neglected.
Not a chance, CP. Worked hard to get it running again and now I'm going to enjoy it!
Much better. You learn quickly grasshopper.
On CP's advice I adjusted my chain this afternoon. My 6 year old son helped me, which usually doubles the length of any task -- but even so it only took me less than half an hour.
Meanwhile, as I write this, my wife has been out riding for about 3 hours while I put the kids to bed. Wonder when she's planning on coming back????
Re: !)(^*% Battery
Someone wrote a lengthy diatribe on my parent's heritage and my personal hygeine, concluding with:
Don't expect us to do all the work for you 8^) every time. It's allthere for free from the battery manufacturer's web sites. Use Googleto find them. Do your homework and become the expert. I don't have aVF-500C so I have zero incentive to find the information for you, butI did it in about 10 minutes because I was bored. Do it yourself andsave someone else the work. Consider it your payback to the list forall it's done for you over the years.
To which I say:
Ouch, ouch, ouch. Okay I deserved that, but ouch.
We're a grumpy bunch this week, eh?
I can take it.
Even the comment about me expecting the list to do all the work for me all the time. Not true!
I do tons of research and reading, but often also bounce questions off this list for input. When I succeed (or even when I fail) at fixing something myself I post that to the list as well. I know it's a give and take and I hopefully will do my share of both. You gotta know that since I've never turned a wrench prior to owning our two bikes last year that I'm gonna ask a buncha dumb questions. But don't think that I'm expecting list members to do all the work for me.
Also, folks tell me thanks for asking these questions. Folks benefit from me sticking my neck out and asking questions. Folks contact me months later because they remember I've been through something that they are now facing. To me, that's contributing to the list even though it may take place off-list.
Meanwhile, I'm going to keep researching and keep asking dumb questions and keep getting sh*t occasionally for it.
I sifted through the rest of what was said to find:
Match up the closest fitting AGM battery which has dimension NOTMORE than the stock battery. You can always install a smaller battery, but not a bigger one in most cases.
I admit I did very little research before posting comments about my !)(^*% Battery. Shame on me. I've done more research since and will continue to share my findings with the group.
Don't expect us to do all the work for you 8^) every time. It's allthere for free from the battery manufacturer's web sites. Use Googleto find them. Do your homework and become the expert. I don't have aVF-500C so I have zero incentive to find the information for you, butI did it in about 10 minutes because I was bored. Do it yourself andsave someone else the work. Consider it your payback to the list forall it's done for you over the years.
To which I say:
Ouch, ouch, ouch. Okay I deserved that, but ouch.
We're a grumpy bunch this week, eh?
I can take it.
Even the comment about me expecting the list to do all the work for me all the time. Not true!
I do tons of research and reading, but often also bounce questions off this list for input. When I succeed (or even when I fail) at fixing something myself I post that to the list as well. I know it's a give and take and I hopefully will do my share of both. You gotta know that since I've never turned a wrench prior to owning our two bikes last year that I'm gonna ask a buncha dumb questions. But don't think that I'm expecting list members to do all the work for me.
Also, folks tell me thanks for asking these questions. Folks benefit from me sticking my neck out and asking questions. Folks contact me months later because they remember I've been through something that they are now facing. To me, that's contributing to the list even though it may take place off-list.
Meanwhile, I'm going to keep researching and keep asking dumb questions and keep getting sh*t occasionally for it.
I sifted through the rest of what was said to find:
Match up the closest fitting AGM battery which has dimension NOTMORE than the stock battery. You can always install a smaller battery, but not a bigger one in most cases.
I admit I did very little research before posting comments about my !)(^*% Battery. Shame on me. I've done more research since and will continue to share my findings with the group.
Re: !)(^*% Battery
Stealer told me no sealed batteries available for V30. Dennis Kirk agreed. Didn't look further. Didn't ask the SabMag list. (Dumbass=Me) Perhaps I should've asked the list where to find a sealed battery for our two V30's, but I freekin wanted to ride and plopped down $42 a piece for traditional YUASA lead acid , vented, "high-maintenance" batteries.
Stealer charged the batteries for me, I picked them up (cage) after work on Friday and installed them Friday night. Took a midnight ride just to help erase the frustration of the day including two dead batteries on two bikes and a gorgeous day for riding LOST!!! and me taking the cage to work.
Good news, it was also a great NIGHT for a ride.
So, while we're on the subject of dumb questions (asked and not asked), let me ask another:
So what do I do with my two old batteries that were boiled dry? Is there a salvage value -- someone told my Walmart takes them on trade for $7 each. Is there any point in reconditioning them?
Thanks again for your help!
Stealer charged the batteries for me, I picked them up (cage) after work on Friday and installed them Friday night. Took a midnight ride just to help erase the frustration of the day including two dead batteries on two bikes and a gorgeous day for riding LOST!!! and me taking the cage to work.
Good news, it was also a great NIGHT for a ride.
So, while we're on the subject of dumb questions (asked and not asked), let me ask another:
So what do I do with my two old batteries that were boiled dry? Is there a salvage value -- someone told my Walmart takes them on trade for $7 each. Is there any point in reconditioning them?
Thanks again for your help!
Re: !)(^*% Battery
Two new batteries installed in our two bikes, and we're off and running again.
I shouldn't have cursed Battery Tender, I'm sure it wasn't BT that caused the problem but rather my own negligence. Hot weather riding and 6 weeks of not checking the fluid -- should they have boiled away in that amount of time?
So, how often do you check the fluid level in your batteries?
Sorry for the dumb question, but at least it's sabmag related?!?!
I shouldn't have cursed Battery Tender, I'm sure it wasn't BT that caused the problem but rather my own negligence. Hot weather riding and 6 weeks of not checking the fluid -- should they have boiled away in that amount of time?
So, how often do you check the fluid level in your batteries?
Sorry for the dumb question, but at least it's sabmag related?!?!
!)(^*% Battery Tender
Hooked the battery tenders up to our two magnas before vacation.
Hopped on the bike this morning to find my battery dead. A dim glow from the headlight, not enough juice to light the dash lights or turn the crank.
I'm late for work. No problem, my wife says, take mine.
Hopped on hers, it cranked four times and died.
Pop off the side cover and there is fewking no fluid in the battery.
Battery Tender boiled it dry??? That's not s'posed to happen.
On two bikes? On two brand new battery tenders? With two old batteries?
Thoughts?
Hopped on the bike this morning to find my battery dead. A dim glow from the headlight, not enough juice to light the dash lights or turn the crank.
I'm late for work. No problem, my wife says, take mine.
Hopped on hers, it cranked four times and died.
Pop off the side cover and there is fewking no fluid in the battery.
Battery Tender boiled it dry??? That's not s'posed to happen.
On two bikes? On two brand new battery tenders? With two old batteries?
Thoughts?
Throttle Cable Adjustment
Dumb question # 487
Anyone mind sharing tips on throttle cable adjustment? My wife says if I keep playing with my bike's throttle in the garage at night I'll wake the kids. Maybe with some pointers from you guyz dad can finish his throttle adjustments and the kids can get some rest.
The short synopsis: Throttle stays revved even after releasing the grip. Even after the throttle has returned to home position the rpms are high. If I jiggle the throttle, the rpms drift downward.
I have lubed cables, throttle tube, and now throttle housing. Could it be my cables are too tight?
I ordered new cables from Dealer today, couldn't find them anywhere else and price is good. I'm still chasing this sticky throttle problem and I will pursue it until resolved.
I don't think it's a vacuum leak or a carb problem as the problem got 10 times worse when I lubed the cables. I must've moved something out of adjustment or kinked a cable.
Thanks again.
Rat
Anyone mind sharing tips on throttle cable adjustment? My wife says if I keep playing with my bike's throttle in the garage at night I'll wake the kids. Maybe with some pointers from you guyz dad can finish his throttle adjustments and the kids can get some rest.
The short synopsis: Throttle stays revved even after releasing the grip. Even after the throttle has returned to home position the rpms are high. If I jiggle the throttle, the rpms drift downward.
I have lubed cables, throttle tube, and now throttle housing. Could it be my cables are too tight?
I ordered new cables from Dealer today, couldn't find them anywhere else and price is good. I'm still chasing this sticky throttle problem and I will pursue it until resolved.
I don't think it's a vacuum leak or a carb problem as the problem got 10 times worse when I lubed the cables. I must've moved something out of adjustment or kinked a cable.
Thanks again.
Rat
Re: Throttle Woes -- Bad To Worse
I'm still wrassling with my throttle, which I made inexplicably worse by disassembling and lubricating...
Vroom the throttle revs up, and never revs down. what the hell? About one out of every three throttle applications, the RPMs stay high and never come down. I can nudge the throttle down and it'll take the hint, and start dropping RPM.
Based on maggot advice, I double-checked that the throttle grip is not binding on the hard rubber plug that fills the end of the handlebar. Nor is it binding up against the throttle switch housing.
Before my lube job, it would hesitate in the snapping shut. Now it snaps shut with a click. But it stays revved now worse than before ... independent of the throttle snapping shut.
Based on what I'm seeing, I'm thinking I'm either binding inside the throttle housing, where the cables sit inside their grooves -- or, I have a kinked decelerator cable.
I double-checked the cable routing -- using my wife's matching V30 as a handy reference -- and my cables are routed fine.
One thing that I was really unsure about when I disassembled the throttle housing was the decelerator cable's weird elbow where the cable joins with the throttle housing on the handle-bar. The only way to remove it was to rotate the cable round and round while threading the elbow onto the throttle switch housing. Seems like this would twist the cable. I hope when I rethreaded the elbow back onto the housing that I used the same number of twists. If I didn't, did I end up twisting or kinking the cable inside the sheath? There are no visible kinks in the sheath.
Is there some technique for attaching and detaching these throttle cables that I don't know about? How do I know if my cables have an appropriate freedom of movement?
The throttle free-play has been adjusted according to Honda spec and seems just fine. And, as I mentioned before, visibly the throttle grip seems to snap back shut much better than it did before my disassembly.
Any thoughts or suggestions welcome (again, excepting the "buy a new Yamaha" advice)...
Regards,
The Rat
1984 VF500C V30 Red "Katie" (hers) 1984 VF500C V30 Black "Raven" (mine)
Vroom the throttle revs up, and never revs down. what the hell? About one out of every three throttle applications, the RPMs stay high and never come down. I can nudge the throttle down and it'll take the hint, and start dropping RPM.
Based on maggot advice, I double-checked that the throttle grip is not binding on the hard rubber plug that fills the end of the handlebar. Nor is it binding up against the throttle switch housing.
Before my lube job, it would hesitate in the snapping shut. Now it snaps shut with a click. But it stays revved now worse than before ... independent of the throttle snapping shut.
Based on what I'm seeing, I'm thinking I'm either binding inside the throttle housing, where the cables sit inside their grooves -- or, I have a kinked decelerator cable.
I double-checked the cable routing -- using my wife's matching V30 as a handy reference -- and my cables are routed fine.
One thing that I was really unsure about when I disassembled the throttle housing was the decelerator cable's weird elbow where the cable joins with the throttle housing on the handle-bar. The only way to remove it was to rotate the cable round and round while threading the elbow onto the throttle switch housing. Seems like this would twist the cable. I hope when I rethreaded the elbow back onto the housing that I used the same number of twists. If I didn't, did I end up twisting or kinking the cable inside the sheath? There are no visible kinks in the sheath.
Is there some technique for attaching and detaching these throttle cables that I don't know about? How do I know if my cables have an appropriate freedom of movement?
The throttle free-play has been adjusted according to Honda spec and seems just fine. And, as I mentioned before, visibly the throttle grip seems to snap back shut much better than it did before my disassembly.
Any thoughts or suggestions welcome (again, excepting the "buy a new Yamaha" advice)...
Regards,
The Rat
1984 VF500C V30 Red "Katie" (hers) 1984 VF500C V30 Black "Raven" (mine)
Throttle Woes -- Bad To Worse
Okay, now I've done it!
I disassembled the throttle switch housing, removed the throttle grip. I removed the mud from underneath the grip sheath and lubricated it. It moves beautifully!
I cursed my way through fetching the throttle cable ends out of the switch housing, and lubed the cables. Not with WD40 but with a cable lube oil. They move much more freely now. Man, this was surely the problem! It works and feels great!
So -- everything's going according to plan, ain't it?
Put it all back together and fire it up.
Vroom the throttle revs up, and never revs down. what the hell? About one out of every three throttle applications, the RPMs stay high and never come down. I can nudge the throttle down and it'll take the hint, and start dropping RPM.
Nuts!
Tomorrow or whenever I get my next chance I'm going to disassemble the throttle switch housing and see if I missed something. Dunno if I kinked a cable or something. The thing that really puzzles me about this is that the throttle snaps shut like it outta. Before my lube job, it would hesitate in the snapping shut. Now it snaps shut with a click. But it stays revved now worse than before ... independent of the throttle snapping shut.
I'm going to retrace my steps and see what I missed. Didn't I read something about lube oil getting sucked into the carbeurator? Gotta do more research
Any insights would be greatly appreciated!
Regards,
The Rat
1984 VF500C V30 Red "Katie" (hers) 1984 VF500C V30 Black "Raven" (mine)
I disassembled the throttle switch housing, removed the throttle grip. I removed the mud from underneath the grip sheath and lubricated it. It moves beautifully!
I cursed my way through fetching the throttle cable ends out of the switch housing, and lubed the cables. Not with WD40 but with a cable lube oil. They move much more freely now. Man, this was surely the problem! It works and feels great!
So -- everything's going according to plan, ain't it?
Put it all back together and fire it up.
Vroom the throttle revs up, and never revs down. what the hell? About one out of every three throttle applications, the RPMs stay high and never come down. I can nudge the throttle down and it'll take the hint, and start dropping RPM.
Nuts!
Tomorrow or whenever I get my next chance I'm going to disassemble the throttle switch housing and see if I missed something. Dunno if I kinked a cable or something. The thing that really puzzles me about this is that the throttle snaps shut like it outta. Before my lube job, it would hesitate in the snapping shut. Now it snaps shut with a click. But it stays revved now worse than before ... independent of the throttle snapping shut.
I'm going to retrace my steps and see what I missed. Didn't I read something about lube oil getting sucked into the carbeurator? Gotta do more research
Any insights would be greatly appreciated!
Regards,
The Rat
1984 VF500C V30 Red "Katie" (hers) 1984 VF500C V30 Black "Raven" (mine)
Clutch Success / Throttle Question
My clutch woes have been discussed in detail here in prior posts. So my clutch successes should be shared with all as well.
Tonight I replaced the worn clutch lever bushing and M/C push rod. All the slop I had felt in the clutch lever was gone.
Tonight I took er for a spin. It's fixed! Feels great, feels better than the clutch on my wife's bike! Feels like new!
All of that without touching clutch plates or even clutch slave cylinder. Just despooging the Clutch M/C and bleeding bleeding bleeding.
Thanks for all your help!
Next question ( I'm never satisfied ) --- Raven's throttle is still stickier than my wife's throttle. Mine doesn't snap shut as quickly as hers. I can't get no satisfaction at lubricating the throttle cable -- Honda service manual says very little -- only, "disconnect the throttle cable at its upper end. Thoroughly lubricate the cable..."
Do I need to disassemble the throttle "switch housing" to gain access to the "upper end"?
I have gotten only a little relief by spraying WD40 in the cable channels at the throttle grip (suggested by motorcyclist magazine and also at least one maggot in a previous post) but I'm still feeling some stickiness in the throttle. I don't think the throttle grip is dragging. Throttle rolls on just fine, but hesitates a little at rolling off.
20 year old bike I'm wondering if the "decceleratrix" cable is worn; getting a better look would give me some piece of mind too I guess.
Thanks in advance for your help!
The Rat
1984 VF500C V30 Red "Katie" (hers) 1984 VF500C V30 Black "Raven" (mine)
Tonight I replaced the worn clutch lever bushing and M/C push rod. All the slop I had felt in the clutch lever was gone.
Tonight I took er for a spin. It's fixed! Feels great, feels better than the clutch on my wife's bike! Feels like new!
All of that without touching clutch plates or even clutch slave cylinder. Just despooging the Clutch M/C and bleeding bleeding bleeding.
Thanks for all your help!
Next question ( I'm never satisfied ) --- Raven's throttle is still stickier than my wife's throttle. Mine doesn't snap shut as quickly as hers. I can't get no satisfaction at lubricating the throttle cable -- Honda service manual says very little -- only, "disconnect the throttle cable at its upper end. Thoroughly lubricate the cable..."
Do I need to disassemble the throttle "switch housing" to gain access to the "upper end"?
I have gotten only a little relief by spraying WD40 in the cable channels at the throttle grip (suggested by motorcyclist magazine and also at least one maggot in a previous post) but I'm still feeling some stickiness in the throttle. I don't think the throttle grip is dragging. Throttle rolls on just fine, but hesitates a little at rolling off.
20 year old bike I'm wondering if the "decceleratrix" cable is worn; getting a better look would give me some piece of mind too I guess.
Thanks in advance for your help!
The Rat
1984 VF500C V30 Red "Katie" (hers) 1984 VF500C V30 Black "Raven" (mine)
Clutch Push-rod
The old clutch master cylinder bushing and push rod.It's supposed to be symmetrical. This is a case study in why you should periodically lubricate your pivot points. This information is in the owner's manual -- but was an aspect of routine maintenance that was obviously got overlooked by the previous owner.
Fortunately for me, there's a wonderful website, www.oldbikebarn.com, that stocks parts for old bikes like these.
Clutch Woes, Continued
You might remember my clutch woes on Raven, which I've written about before.
I followed this groups advice and bled everything on the clutch, and am quite happy with the results. Particularly that little nugget about strapping the clutch lever to the grip and leaving it there for 48 hours -- that seemed to work like a charm. Now when I squeeze the lever the clutch actually works! So this is marked improvement.
I'm still not happy with overall clutch function, however. Again, using my wife's "identical make and model" V30 as a reference point, there is way too much slop in my clutch handle. I have about 1 inch of play, measured at the tip of the clutch lever, between fully released and the point at which the clutch M/C rod begins to push into the cylinder. On my wife's V30 by comparison there is less than 1/8 inch play.
I disassembled lever, bushing, rod and pivot and found considerable wear. Already have replacement MC rod and bushing in hand, so next time I get a break I'll replace those. If that doesn't work, the next step is the Clutch M/C rebuild, I think, based on the behavior I'm seeing.
I'll post photos of my old and new parts for reference once I've done the project.
Now I'm off to try to find a clutch M/C "kit". I thought I was buying a clutch m/c kit with replacement cylinder and seals from OldBikeBarn.com, but when it arrived it was just the MC push rod and bush. My fault for not reading the description carefully. Any thoughts on tracking down pure V30 unobtanium? Bike Bandit has it for $43 plus shipping.
Thanks in advance.
The Rat
1984 VF500C V30 Red "Katie" (hers)
1984 VF500C V30 Black "Raven" (mine)
I followed this groups advice and bled everything on the clutch, and am quite happy with the results. Particularly that little nugget about strapping the clutch lever to the grip and leaving it there for 48 hours -- that seemed to work like a charm. Now when I squeeze the lever the clutch actually works! So this is marked improvement.
I'm still not happy with overall clutch function, however. Again, using my wife's "identical make and model" V30 as a reference point, there is way too much slop in my clutch handle. I have about 1 inch of play, measured at the tip of the clutch lever, between fully released and the point at which the clutch M/C rod begins to push into the cylinder. On my wife's V30 by comparison there is less than 1/8 inch play.
I disassembled lever, bushing, rod and pivot and found considerable wear. Already have replacement MC rod and bushing in hand, so next time I get a break I'll replace those. If that doesn't work, the next step is the Clutch M/C rebuild, I think, based on the behavior I'm seeing.
I'll post photos of my old and new parts for reference once I've done the project.
Now I'm off to try to find a clutch M/C "kit". I thought I was buying a clutch m/c kit with replacement cylinder and seals from OldBikeBarn.com, but when it arrived it was just the MC push rod and bush. My fault for not reading the description carefully. Any thoughts on tracking down pure V30 unobtanium? Bike Bandit has it for $43 plus shipping.
Thanks in advance.
The Rat
1984 VF500C V30 Red "Katie" (hers)
1984 VF500C V30 Black "Raven" (mine)
Leaky Tank
Her tank was rusty on the inside when I bought the bike last year. At least it has an inline fuel filter. Tonight when she got home from her ride I could smell gas. I could hear sizzling drips of something falling onto a hot surface. Before we brought it into the garage I pulled out the flashlight and probed 
around. I spotted liquid dripping, sheeting down a tube, dripping onto the rear head. Everything was still hot, but a paper towel touched to the liquid and retrieved confirmed -- gasoline. 
Did you overfill it? No.
Siphoned out the gasoline, pulled off the seat and propped up the tank. Poked around with a pencil to point out the leaky spots.
There are two tubes descending from the tank, one is small (1/4") and butts right up against the floor of the tank. The other is larger (1/2" ) and attaches to a 90-degree 
elbow. It looks like the smaller one is leaking, but there is gas all over the general area and it's hard to tell the source of the leak.
Despite the ominous dripping of gasoline onto a hot engine, I was able to effectively repair this simply by tightening the hose clamps.
Re: Clutch Help
Somebuggy said:
My Sabre and my Goldwing act the same ways as your bike. And theirclutches are fine. Other than that, does the bike ride OK. No slipping,just the good grabbing, holding and releasing well, etc? Then it's acting normal.
I say:
I'd be surprised if this is normal. The amount of drag while the clutch is pulled back seems excessive. The friction zone in the clutch is very narrow, and when the bike warms up it's almost impossible to go from standing still to moving forward. Let slowly out on the clutch, and instead of a broad band of friction zone, it's like bang it's engaged.
The clutch drag is more than this bike had last season, and it's more than my wife's bike has now. I understand that maybe there's supposed to be some drag when the clutch is pulled back, but I think what I'm dealing with is excessive. For instance, with the bike off, the bike in 1st gear, and the clutch pulled back, I can move my wife's bike. This is how you start with a dead battery! But on my bike, the bike really does not want to move in this situation.
Still trying to figger if I'm looking at warped clutch plates or a gummy clutch slave cylinder. I figure at least the clutch slave cylinder needs cleaning and new seals.
Thanks for your help!
The Rat
1984 VF500C V30 Red "Katie" (hers)
1984 VF500C V30 Black "Raven" (mine)
My Sabre and my Goldwing act the same ways as your bike. And theirclutches are fine. Other than that, does the bike ride OK. No slipping,just the good grabbing, holding and releasing well, etc? Then it's acting normal.
I say:
I'd be surprised if this is normal. The amount of drag while the clutch is pulled back seems excessive. The friction zone in the clutch is very narrow, and when the bike warms up it's almost impossible to go from standing still to moving forward. Let slowly out on the clutch, and instead of a broad band of friction zone, it's like bang it's engaged.
The clutch drag is more than this bike had last season, and it's more than my wife's bike has now. I understand that maybe there's supposed to be some drag when the clutch is pulled back, but I think what I'm dealing with is excessive. For instance, with the bike off, the bike in 1st gear, and the clutch pulled back, I can move my wife's bike. This is how you start with a dead battery! But on my bike, the bike really does not want to move in this situation.
Still trying to figger if I'm looking at warped clutch plates or a gummy clutch slave cylinder. I figure at least the clutch slave cylinder needs cleaning and new seals.
Thanks for your help!
The Rat
1984 VF500C V30 Red "Katie" (hers)
1984 VF500C V30 Black "Raven" (mine)
Re: Clutch Help
>Um, I thought the wheel wasn't *supposed* to move with the clutch
>pulled in?
What I meant was, the bike is off, sitting on its center stand, in first gear, and the clutch lever is pulled in. On my wife's bike, the rear wheel can be turned by hand in this state. On my bike, the rear wheel will not rotate by hand.
What I've gathered from other responses is that I may be looking at a gummed up slave cylinder and not a problem with the clutch plates. If the plates are worn the clutch will slip. I have the opposite problem. I also gather that this is good news, that of the two problems, gummed up slave cylinder is the preferred one i.e. easier to fix.
Now I'm off to find a clutch slave cylinder rebuild kit -- I'm assuming they exist. Dennis Kirk had none that I could find. I'll check Bike Bandit. I'm assuming the rubber seals should be replaced while I have the unit apart for cleaning.
>pulled in?
What I meant was, the bike is off, sitting on its center stand, in first gear, and the clutch lever is pulled in. On my wife's bike, the rear wheel can be turned by hand in this state. On my bike, the rear wheel will not rotate by hand.
What I've gathered from other responses is that I may be looking at a gummed up slave cylinder and not a problem with the clutch plates. If the plates are worn the clutch will slip. I have the opposite problem. I also gather that this is good news, that of the two problems, gummed up slave cylinder is the preferred one i.e. easier to fix.
Now I'm off to find a clutch slave cylinder rebuild kit -- I'm assuming they exist. Dennis Kirk had none that I could find. I'll check Bike Bandit. I'm assuming the rubber seals should be replaced while I have the unit apart for cleaning.
Bad Tire
| Her tires are Kenda Challengers Her rear tire has a cut across the middle. Maybe 1/16 inch deep. I've never seen anything like it. No cords showing.
What do you make of this? How bad is it? Can she still ride? |
Clutch Help
I bled the guinness-colored fluid from my clutch in hopes that it would revive Raven's clutch function. I cleared the mississippi mud from the bottom of my clutch master cylinder's reservoir, and bled til the guinness switched to miller lite.
However, to my dismay, when I put it all back together the rear wheel still won't turn when the bike's in first gear and the clutch lever is pulled back. The rear wheel will turn when the bike's in neutral.
I'm assuming I'm looking at a clutch job to repair this.
As background, when I bought the bike last September, I noticed that when the bike was cold the bike would want to inch forward when it was in first gear, even though the clutch lever was pulled back. This sensation would go away when the bike was warm. It was never much of a problem but I noticed much crappier clutch behavior the last time I took it out. Advice from this list at that time was to start with bleeding the clutch, and move on to some "heavier lifting" if the bleeding didn't work.
I just successfully rebuilt the front brake caliper so I'm wondering how the clutch work that I need to do compares? About the same level of difficulty? Twice as hard?
Tips and gotchas welcome. Looks like I got more work to do before I ride my own ride this summer. Fortunately her bike is running and she's nice enough to let me ride.
Regards,
Ted
1984 VF500C V30 Red "Katie" (hers)
1984 VF500C V30 Black "Raven" (mine)
However, to my dismay, when I put it all back together the rear wheel still won't turn when the bike's in first gear and the clutch lever is pulled back. The rear wheel will turn when the bike's in neutral.
I'm assuming I'm looking at a clutch job to repair this.
As background, when I bought the bike last September, I noticed that when the bike was cold the bike would want to inch forward when it was in first gear, even though the clutch lever was pulled back. This sensation would go away when the bike was warm. It was never much of a problem but I noticed much crappier clutch behavior the last time I took it out. Advice from this list at that time was to start with bleeding the clutch, and move on to some "heavier lifting" if the bleeding didn't work.
I just successfully rebuilt the front brake caliper so I'm wondering how the clutch work that I need to do compares? About the same level of difficulty? Twice as hard?
Tips and gotchas welcome. Looks like I got more work to do before I ride my own ride this summer. Fortunately her bike is running and she's nice enough to let me ride.
Regards,
Ted
1984 VF500C V30 Red "Katie" (hers)
1984 VF500C V30 Black "Raven" (mine)
Calipers Rebuilt
Thanks to ALL who walked me through my first caliper rebuild. It went very well and things are doing much better! You guys rock!
My brakes are still spongy but I already have lots of advice on bleeding and bleeding and bleeding, so I'm going to try again tonight with my wife's help. I have high hopes that I'll be able to firm the brakes up by bleeding them.
A couple lingering questions from the rebuild.
I did not replace the pads. They were in great shape and according to the PO had been used less than a season. From the looks of them I'd say he was right. I have my wife's old pads from last summer to use as a comparison. By comparison, mine look pretty good, still plenty think, not grooved, not chipped or cracked on the edges.
However, the pad spring was bent and I did my best to return it to its original shape. But for all my research on brake calipers, I can't find a good explanation of the purpose of the pad spring. I'm guessing that it keeps the pad from rattling, but if there's some other function that it performs, I'd like to know.
Also, the pad pins were a bitch to get out, and were pretty gummed up. I cleaned them off with brake cleaner, and Dawn Power Resolve (which she lent me from the kitchen -- did a bang up job).
I'm wondering if the brakes dragging had as much to do with the filthy pad pins as anything else. And, should I plan on replacing the pins when I replace my pads next? How can I tell if the pad pins / pad spring are working properly? I don't know how much play in the pads is desirable, and whether it being resistant to movement is a good thing or a sign of binding on the pad pins.
Once again thanks in advance for the help.
Regards,
Rat
1984 VF500C V30 Red "Katie" (hers)
1984 VF500C V30 Black "Raven" (mine)
My brakes are still spongy but I already have lots of advice on bleeding and bleeding and bleeding, so I'm going to try again tonight with my wife's help. I have high hopes that I'll be able to firm the brakes up by bleeding them.
A couple lingering questions from the rebuild.
I did not replace the pads. They were in great shape and according to the PO had been used less than a season. From the looks of them I'd say he was right. I have my wife's old pads from last summer to use as a comparison. By comparison, mine look pretty good, still plenty think, not grooved, not chipped or cracked on the edges.
However, the pad spring was bent and I did my best to return it to its original shape. But for all my research on brake calipers, I can't find a good explanation of the purpose of the pad spring. I'm guessing that it keeps the pad from rattling, but if there's some other function that it performs, I'd like to know.
Also, the pad pins were a bitch to get out, and were pretty gummed up. I cleaned them off with brake cleaner, and Dawn Power Resolve (which she lent me from the kitchen -- did a bang up job).
I'm wondering if the brakes dragging had as much to do with the filthy pad pins as anything else. And, should I plan on replacing the pins when I replace my pads next? How can I tell if the pad pins / pad spring are working properly? I don't know how much play in the pads is desirable, and whether it being resistant to movement is a good thing or a sign of binding on the pad pins.
Once again thanks in advance for the help.
Regards,
Rat
1984 VF500C V30 Red "Katie" (hers)
1984 VF500C V30 Black "Raven" (mine)
Decreased clutch function when warm
Took Raven out for a spin and noticed that the clutch gets very grabby when everything is warmed up. Clutch action is smooth, and seems to have a wide band of "friction zone" when the bike is cold. It seemed like the friction zone shrank when the bike warmed up.
I never notice any spongy-ness in the clutch line, like you would in a hydraulic brake line . But I'm wondering if crappy clutch control could just also be water vapor in the hydraulic line. It would probably feel different in a clutch than it would on a brake.
I could barely get the damned thing back home, it'd kill it to release the clutch in first gear from standing still, no matter how slowly and gently I did it.
I'd welcome any thoughts or suggestions (except "buy a new bike"). As always your help is appreciated.
Regards,
Ted
1984 VF500C V30 Red "Katie" (hers)
1984 VF500C V30 Black "Raven" (mine)
I never notice any spongy-ness in the clutch line, like you would in a hydraulic brake line . But I'm wondering if crappy clutch control could just also be water vapor in the hydraulic line. It would probably feel different in a clutch than it would on a brake.
I could barely get the damned thing back home, it'd kill it to release the clutch in first gear from standing still, no matter how slowly and gently I did it.
I'd welcome any thoughts or suggestions (except "buy a new bike"). As always your help is appreciated.
Regards,
Ted
1984 VF500C V30 Red "Katie" (hers)
1984 VF500C V30 Black "Raven" (mine)
Brake Fluid
"If it's darker than lite beer, Change the fluid"
I think this qualifies. Mine looked like Guinness.
Sticky throttle / Sticky Choke Part 2
Sorry, I pressed send before I described the problem with the choke on her V30:
We have the increasingly sticky choke to contend with on my wife's V30. When I bought it for her birthday last summer, the guy who sold it to me said that the choke cable needed to be replaced, but he said he'd never messed with it, he just held the choke open with a finger while starting her up and vroom, no problem. We've used that technique successfully thus far, and it works well enough that I can see why the previous owner never bothered to replace the choke cable.
But, I've noticed that the broken cable is not the only problem with the choke. The choke valve at the carb sticks in open position. There seems to be some corrosion at the valve.
In fact, it makes me wonder if the choke cable broke because the choke valve was sticking.
Let's just start with a basic question -- Is it supposed to spring back closed, or is it supposed to have enough friction to stay where I put it?
Thanks for your help, and for your patience with a newbie's questions.
Regards,
Rat
We have the increasingly sticky choke to contend with on my wife's V30. When I bought it for her birthday last summer, the guy who sold it to me said that the choke cable needed to be replaced, but he said he'd never messed with it, he just held the choke open with a finger while starting her up and vroom, no problem. We've used that technique successfully thus far, and it works well enough that I can see why the previous owner never bothered to replace the choke cable.
But, I've noticed that the broken cable is not the only problem with the choke. The choke valve at the carb sticks in open position. There seems to be some corrosion at the valve.
In fact, it makes me wonder if the choke cable broke because the choke valve was sticking.
Let's just start with a basic question -- Is it supposed to spring back closed, or is it supposed to have enough friction to stay where I put it?
Thanks for your help, and for your patience with a newbie's questions.
Regards,
Rat
Sticky Throttle / Sticky Choke
Sticky Throttle / Sticky Choke
Fired up the his-and-hers V30's last night and noticed two problems, one on hers, and one on mine.
I noticed the throttle on my V30 sticking. How can I tell whether I need to lube the cable, or the throttle grip?
The Honda Service manual isn't particularly helpful on this. It tells me to lube the throttle grip but does not say how.
I'm sure you old hands will laugh at such a basic question -- but I'm new to this and I'd like to have a procedure in hand before tearing it apart trying to figure it out. I don't mind tearing things apart and putting 'em back together, but with such a knowledgeable group, why stumble in the dark when someone who's been there before can shed some light.
Any tips or gotchas welcome!
Thanks.
1984 VF500C V30 Red "Katie" (hers) 1984 VF500C V30 Black "Raven" (mine)
MSF BRC Grad: 2000 (her); 2004 (me)
Fired up the his-and-hers V30's last night and noticed two problems, one on hers, and one on mine.
I noticed the throttle on my V30 sticking. How can I tell whether I need to lube the cable, or the throttle grip?
The Honda Service manual isn't particularly helpful on this. It tells me to lube the throttle grip but does not say how.
I'm sure you old hands will laugh at such a basic question -- but I'm new to this and I'd like to have a procedure in hand before tearing it apart trying to figure it out. I don't mind tearing things apart and putting 'em back together, but with such a knowledgeable group, why stumble in the dark when someone who's been there before can shed some light.
Any tips or gotchas welcome!
Thanks.
1984 VF500C V30 Red "Katie" (hers) 1984 VF500C V30 Black "Raven" (mine)
MSF BRC Grad: 2000 (her); 2004 (me)
What's a Magna Owner Called?
Owners of Honda Magnas are affectionately known as maggots.
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